6 posts tagged "Wood Wood"
Given Copenhagen’s chilly climate, it’s no surprise that during the city’s biannual fashion week, which wrapped on Friday, Scandinavian designers turned out warm, functional garments. Gorgeous coats were staples, and some of the best came from Designers Remix’s uniform-inspired collection. Fur was also a fixture, and particularly stood out on rising star Freya Dalsjø’s runway (above, left). Her use of color-blocking brought new dimension to her mink coats and pumps.
After a few seasons of absence, Danish favorites Wackerhaus and Stine Goya (above, right) made strong returns to Copenhagen fashion week. The former presented layers of tailored, feminine garments, while the latter enlisted top Danish models Lykke May and Louise P to showcase her voluminous lavender, baby blue, and mint green wares. Those looking for decadence got their fill at By Malene Birger. The brand’s namesake founder departed the label last season, and the Fall ’14 collection was designed by Christina Exsteen. The lineup, with its seventies-inspired maxi-glam feel, was true to the brand and felt younger and more directional than previous By Malene Birger offerings.
Both Anne Sofie Madsen and Asger Juel Larsen (above, left) were inspired by Antarctica this season, but each of their collections showcased the respective designer’s signatures, and demonstrated why these two talents are gaining international recognition. Madsen’s white furs definitely caught editors’ eyes, as did her intricate, ice-crystal-like dresses. Meanwhile, Larsen’s techno-inspired, tribal-printed collection had a campy quality, and was one of the top outings of the season. Wali Mohammed Barrech’s black-and-red ninja looks also deserve a mention—he’s one of the city’s most interesting up-and-comers. We’ll be keeping our eye on him.
Copenhagen’s clique of clever urban brands, Wood Wood, Baum und Pferdgarten, and Henrik Vibskov (above, right), were at it again for Fall ’14. Vibskov’s spaghetti-inspired collection gave a lesson in colorful joy, while Wood Wood stuck to a more sporty aesthetic. And one of Fall ’14′s biggest trends in Copenhagen—check patterns—was done best by Baum und Pferdgarten. The clothes were an unlikely combination of grunge and prep.
Copenhagen fashion week wrapped this weekend, and the Scandinavian Spring ’14 runways saw designers embrace relaxed, sportswear-inspired looks in mesh, nylon, and neoprene. A fitting trend, perhaps, seeing as informality is a big part of Copenhagen’s culture.
Danish enfant terrible Asger Juel Larsen opened the festivities, and his hard-hitting political show set a high standard. Anne Sofie Madsen delivered a striking array of intricate leather dresses, bulky tops inspired by motocross, and broad pants paired with mesh tops. She completed her looks with jewelry by Trine Tuxen. And rising star Freya Dalsjø raised the bar still, bringing in Lindsey Wixson to open her three-model-only show (above, left). Her trio of catwalkers piled on layers and layers of color-blocked silk garments before wrapping up in boxy, swoon-worthy neoprene coats for their final lap.
Henrik Vibskov showed off his print chops with an Afrocentric collection—one of his best in recent years (above, right). Baum und Pferdgarten, too, delivered strong prints—from leopard spots to stripes—on its wearable, feminine garments, and Jean//Phillip returned to the menswear scene with a lineup that included red and green reptile motifs. Continue Reading “Danes Just Wanna Have Fun” »
Even with the promise of champagne, 8 a.m. is an early call time for the last day of fashion week. But that didn’t stop editors from flocking to Day Birger et Mikkelsen‘s Copenhagen flagship for an early-morning presentation. While show-goers enjoyed a tasty brunch, models wove through the room in tweed coats, wrap dresses, pencil skirts, fluffy sweaters and tiger-print pants. Casual suits and beaded jackets were also Fall features and showed off the brand’s signature fusion of intricate craftsmanship and simplicity.
After more than thirty years on the fashion scene, Ivan Grundahl is not exactly a new kid on the block. Even so, his Fall ’13 felt youthful, and even a little rock ’n’ roll. Asymmetrical lines, architectural shapes, and uneven silhouettes are Grundahl’s signatures—all of which were present during Friday’s show. The collection (above) offered lots of heavy boots, loose trousers, and sweaters in dark prints, black, and army green. Large pockets and lace were used as accents, and balloon-shaped dresses and sequined skirts provided hints of femininity.
Stine Riis, the winner of last year’s H&M Design Award, closed out Copenhagen fashion week with her collection, RIIS. For Fall ’13, she continued her love affair with clean dressing and discreet details, showing tailored trousers and narrow pencil skirts mixed with silk shirts and wool outerwear. A gray jacket was one of the best pieces in the show, and cutout patent leather details on skirts and tops were a nice contrast to the modern minimalism.
Pink, mint, pumpkin, lemon, and mauve were the dominant colors at Copenhagen fashion week, but the underlying ethos was far from frivolous. Established illustrator and Denmark’s rising local design star Anne Sofie Madsen’s signature illustration on both her invite and a silk T-shirt (pictured) in her Spring 2013 collection sums up the Danish spirit. With a mixture of sweetness and bite, a girl’s face hovers over an ice cream cone. Her features are flanked by pitbulls and cobras as she is surrounded by a wash of pink with mint green and gold drips.
While Madsen is the right person to push Copenhagen’s spirit to artistic extremes, the same mixture of hard-core style with a candy-colored palette was everywhere during the week. Only Wood Wood took a decidedly darker turn from its previous British public school-inspired seasons, with a collection evoking Liverpudlian hooligans with plum tracksuits, scowls, and full blue Scouse brows. Overall, the catwalks were awash with sugary shades and earthy or edgy shapes.
The likely originator of this trend is Stine Goya, whose season after season success promoting a dessert-inspired pistachio, pumpkin, and berry palette now helps define the present moment in Danish design. Goya’s soft, pragmatic cuts counterbalance her smart and serious references. In past seasons, she channeled the Amish, haunted puppet theaters, and Victoriana. This season, she presented an elegant, relaxed white blouse paired with matching seventies-style trousers, both sporting a watercolor print of clowns from a Fellini film. Although Goya makes challenging artistic references and was introduced to Denmark’s fashion scene through her relationship with surrealist Henrik Visbov, her clothes are Copenhagen’s most realistic additions to real women’s lives.
This accessible mentality was also evident at Bruuns Bazaar, where Rebekka Bay, the former artistic director for Cos, presented clean, crisp clothes for women and men, with exciting dashes of yellow and blue against sage, mint, vanilla, and taupe. Peter Jensen’s menswear and womenswear employed brighter and bolder versions of the same ice cream colors. Even the reliably gothic Barbara í Gongini started her artful show of sculptural stiff pleats and Rick Owens-like ravished leather with a series of ghostly girls wearing only acid yellow shredded tights, dresses, and tops in thin cotton. With its harder forms and spectrum of dessert shades, Copenhagen was a treat.
The calendar of global fashion weeks has already whipped cognoscenti around the world this year, and it’s barely February. This week, New York hosts its packed schedule of Fall shows; last week, it was Copenhagen’s turn on the world fashion stage.
Copenhagen fashion week energizes the whole city. Massive television screens beam the shows to the general public, who gather for impromptu parties on the street. Other fashion weeks have struggled to absorb trends from the axis-of-influence cities, but Copenhagen stays true to its own traditions, largely centered around loose, layers and bold prints. It’s a look done best by Henrik Vibskov, who helped define Danish design, but he’s got plenty of compatriots with collections worth seeing.
Stine Goya’s uncanny collection of graceful jumpsuits, rounded-shouldered jackets, raspberry-colored prairie-girl hats and softly draped dresses at the inspiring wood-paneled Danish Royal Danish Academy of Music was a standout (above left). So was the show from the talented Wackerhaus label, which looked like a sexed-up version of Goya’s slinkier pieces. The youthful, streetwear-leaning line Wood Wood stayed true to form with a collection of multi-layered print unisex coats, dresses and leggings in soft prints and muted shades of yellow, gray and maroon. Danish design is sometimes faulted for being overly theatrical, but any of these pieces off the runway could be easily assimilated into an everyday wardrobe. Not so those shown at Vilsbøl de Arce’s tiny presentation: lacerated leather masks, leather and wood laced boots and sculptural dresses and bodysuits (above right). They didn’t make a case for wearability, but you could easily see why the label often supplies Rihanna and Lady Gaga.