4 posts tagged "Yang Li"
AMI‘s Alexandre Mattiussi won this year’s ANDAM Fashion Prize in Paris yesterday, beating out an international list of contenders that included Olympia Le-Tan, Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Iris Van Herpen, Yang Li, and Masha Ma. Mattiussi will receive 250,000 euros and mentoring from Renzo Rosso. ANDAM’s First Collection Prize went to Christine Phung. She’ll take home 75,000 euros. At the cocktail party that followed the competition, Mattiussi revealed that he and Phung were in the same class at France’s Duperré School. Mattiussi does menswear and Phung women’s, but they took similar paths to launching their own lines, apprenticing at different houses—Givenchy and Marc Jacobs for his part, and Christophe Lemaire, Chloé, Vanessa Bruno, Lacoste, and Dior for hers. An award ceremony will take place on October 3, during Paris Fashion Week.
Considering the winner receives a cool 250,000 euros and a two-season mentorship from Italian fashion tycoon Renzo Rosso, the ANDAM Fashion Award is one of the most coveted in the biz. And today, the group announced the seven finalists being considered for the 2013 prize. This year, AMI designer Alexandre Mattiussi, the ever-quirky Olympia Le-Tan (left), Yang Li, Pedro Lourenço, Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Masha Ma, and conceptual couturier Iris van Herpen will be competing for the honor. The winner, whose spoils will also include his or her Spring ’14 collection being sold in Canadian department store Hudson’s Bay Company, 10,000 euros worth of Swarovski Crystals to use on his or her Spring ’14 collection, and support from Fashion GPS over the next two years, will be chosen by a panel of industry insiders—including Colette’s Sarah Andelman, Humberto Leon, Paris Vogue‘s Emmanuelle Alt, and Style.com‘s executive editor Nicole Phelps—in Paris on July 4. Previous winners include Anthony Vaccarello, Giles Deacon, Richard Nicoll, and Gareth Pugh.
Yang Li described his Fall collection as a Neo-Uniform. That’s a nod to its strong military flavor but also the fact that Li’s clothes have an essential minimal look that could form the everyday building blocks of a chic urban wardrobe. Well, that is for a woman whose tastes run to the stark, dark, and Philo-esque. What you might find on her list: Li’s cuffed and baggy wool pants, a crew-neck tunic with sleeves that reach just past the elbow (pictured, left), and, certainly, any one of his cool patch-pocketed coats.
The London-based designer debuted last season in Paris with a strict emphasis on double-faced fabrics but lightened things up slightly on his second turn. That resulted in pieces like a great wool trench jacket with a panel of heavy silk attached to its hem, almost like a built-in skirt. “The starting point was a classic trench coat,” said Li. “But it’s as if you sliced off half and left the lining.” Not that Li’s meticulous manner of construction allows for anything that DIY-sounding. There was yet more softness in the heather-gray jersey linings bonded into wool shirts and pants, something you can’t see in pictures but that distinctly upgrades the experience of actually wearing his pieces.
Li’s tight focus as a young designer is a welcome thing. That said, it will be interesting to see where he goes as he widens his scope. In other words: Watch this space.
Yang Li counts Helmut Lang as a personal hero and spent three seasons in Antwerp interning for Raf Simons, so neither the monastically severe lines of his debut collection nor a penchant for quoting Jenny Holzer should come as a surprise.
The 22-year-old Central Saint Martins grad is based in London but decided instead to show his namesake collection in a tiny third arrondissement space in Paris. “I just don’t feel connected to London,” he tells Style.com. “Not in a bad way; I mean, I’ve learned everything there.” To be fair, he’s not exactly forsaking home. Li comes to London via Beijing, where he was born, and Perth, Australia, where he grew up—a life itinerary that makes for a genteel and melodic accent.
His laser-focused range recasts masculine and utilitarian standards with sharp lines, all in very traditional, double-faced wool produced in one of the few Italian factories in the world that works with the fabric. His familiar shapes—what he calls “youth codes”—like hoodies, T-shirts, flight jackets, and wide-legged pants, go back to the Holzer truism he cites: “Use what’s dominant in a culture to change it.”