11 posts tagged "Yazbukey"
There’s been lots of talk about the controversial practice of “peacocking” this season. But as we look back at four weeks of Fall ’13 shows with weary eyes, a few designers (and street-style stars) remind us that the f in fashion stands for fun. And perhaps embracing that with a little panache isn’t such a bad thing—particularly when it comes to novelty accessories. Take Dior, for instance: This season, Raf Simons brought a dash of wit to his slick collection by embossing boxy handbags with Warholian sketches of pointy single-soled shoes, thereby fusing two of our favorite things into one. (His raised-eyebrow sunglasses also deserve an honorable mention.) At Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld garnished his handbags with furry multicolored dice (one of which reminds us a little bit of an Angry Bird), and over at Chanel, he sent out models with mini-globe handbags and cobalt, powder-pink, mint-green, or red fur Anna Wintour bobs that looked like they were plucked from an anime cartoon. Speaking of fur, we can’t forget the giant skunk-striped mittens that turned up at Altuzarra or, for that matter, the arctic-appropriate full-length black gloves at Alexander Wang.
We also saw loads of cheeky headgear (Yazbukey‘s Plexiglas heart-and-arrow hat, Piers Atkinson‘s devil-horn cap, Meadham Kirchhoff‘s unicorns-in-love crown), jewelry (Henry Holland‘s crystal martini earrings, Lanvin‘s wildly appropriate “Help” pendants and wasp brooches, Louise Gray‘s eggbeater earrings), and miscellanea (Dsquared²‘s Sunset Boulevard-worthy extra long crystal-encrusted cigarette holders). But the sartorial satire wasn’t just on the runway. Outside the shows, Tommy Ton captured everything from skeleton gloves to Vika Gazinskaya’s scarf, which is made out of what appears to be a stuffed-animal iteration of a lemur. Sure, many of the shows were dark and somber, with their punk themes and muted palettes. But that just made the odd touch of zany all the more welcome.
Accessories designer (and Ottoman princess) Yaz Bukey has been spending time in Istanbul of late. And the city’s landmark nineteenth-century hotel Pera Palace was the starting point for her Fall 2013 Yazbukey collection, which she’s titled “Murder She Wrote.” The designer donned several of her new Plexiglas wares at her party at the Maison Darré last night, including a heart-and-dagger headpiece that grazed the temple of anyone who attempted to kiss her cheek. “My sister lived in Pera Palace years ago, before the renovation,” she recalled. “It was eerie, kind of haunted, and there was a legend about a missing key. Now, it’s a luxury hotel, but I was thinking about the way it used to be, because that’s where Agatha Christie lived while writing Murder on the Orient Express. This collection is an homage to her and to Angela Lansbury, both.”
At the back of the boutique, a living tableau of characters inspired by a Yazbukey take on the board game Clue (caricatures with names like Agatha Fletcher, Poison Yvette, Professor Doremi, and Crazy Scarlett) camped it up around a Plexiglas piano keyboard. Equally notable as the theatric display were Bukey’s figurative necklaces, plastrons, and handmade handbags inlaid with images of lipstick, pearls, eyeglasses, or—the designer’s personal favorite—a handful of detective novels. Burning on a side table was Bukey’s recent collaboration with Cire Trudon—a candle she said was inspired by a fifties pinup on the back of her boyfriend’s motorcycle. Its scent? “Hair spray, lipstick, and leather.”
Label: Yazbukey by Yaz Bukey
Need to know: Paris-based accessories designer Yaz Bukey never fails to coax a smile with her tongue-in-cheek, tromp l’oeil Plexiglas jewelry. This season, the designer presented not only a witty display of colorful baubles but also debuted a handbag range, as well as a selection of playful silk scarves. Inspired by a retro Californian fantasy, the collection was born out of an imaginary sixties motel scenario. In her bizarre, Bukey world, the designer envisioned a scene in which a band, bartender, naughty hotel maid, and guests meet in a kitschy airbrushed paradise. Bukey expresses her vision in key chains shaped like cat-eye sunglasses, studded collars, and lipstick necklaces. Her vintage-tinged tobacco leather handbags and travel cases featured clever, perverse accoutrements, like a pair of leg-shaped zipper tassels that one must pull apart to open the bag. Foulards were printed with fruity cocktails or phrases like “meet me in the lobby,” and the designer further expanded her vision via home accessories, like a giant guitar or motel sign, which can be hung on walls or placed on tables. From her pink hair-dryer pins to the Marilyn Monroe and Elvis pendants, Bukey created an OMG spring outing filled with irreverence, nostalgia, and a cheeky sense of fun.
She says: “I’ve always had a fantasy about the California life, and this collection is about different people meeting in a motel in California in the 1960s. It’s called Tropical Heat Wave, for Marilyn Monroe’s song, because I think there is a little Marilyn in each one of us. She’s not perfect, but I think she was one of the most beautiful women in the world and she was very clever.”
Where to find it: Colette, Joyce Hong Kong, 10 Corso Como, and other select boutiques.
Pussycat Fight Club was the title Yaz Bukey gave to her Fall 2012 collection of tromp l’oeil accessories, which she revealed last night at her first-ever Paris fashion week presentation. At the dimly lit Maison Darré, the interiors shop of her friend, the set designer and creative director Vincent Darré, Bukey presented surreal, pop-inspired Plexiglas baubles, including flame rings, studded cuffs, and a sweet red heart chapeau, inspired by John Waters’ 1991 greaser parody Cry Baby. “The idea is that this space is a club, and in the hallway there are eight girls in love with Johnny Depp, who for this collection became ‘Johnny Beware.’ They’re all waiting for him desperately but he’ll never come, so it’s a pussycat fight club,” Bukey explained.
The theatrical designer didn’t shy away from inserting herself into the scenes. She transformed herself into nine different characters in the photographs that lined the walls, each decked out with her own Yazbukey accessories. There was, among others, Betty Oops (left), a naive bombshell crowned with a hat of flailing legs; tough and elegant Tina Wontcare (below left), who, in her studded pillbox and Plexiglas collar, can’t be bothered to fret over a man; Lacry Mama (below right), utterly heartbroken in her necklace of crying blue eyeballs and matching earrings; and Lola Romance, the picture of seduction with her red lip necklace, heart-shaped ear cuffs, and pouty pose. Of course, Bukey assumed the macho role of Johnny Beware, too. “He’s been with all the girls, so he’s wearing an accessory from each one of them!” she laughed.
Bukey—who, last night, looked like quite a character herself in a white nurse frock from Vuitton’s Spring 2008 Richard Prince collection, her new leg-motif necklace, and her geometric red cuffs—also revealed that she’s teamed up with scent marvels 12.29 on a candle, available in September. “The base of the scent is gasoline, red lipstick, hair spray, and leather. It’s going to be called Va-va-vroom!” she said. If that doesn’t lure Johnny Beware back to Bukey’s pussycat club, what will?