13 posts tagged "Yazbukey"
Pucker up, kiddos. Smooches abounded on the Spring ’14 runways, making their mark everywhere from Peter Jensen, where frocks and tops were covered with photo-realistic lips, to Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, who crafted a pair of sunglasses with gilded gobs for lenses. The gap-toothed pink and purple pouts that appeared on a series of looks at Giles Deacon were rumored to be an ode to stylist Katie Grand’s grin. Meanwhile, Saint Laurent‘s Hedi Slimane doused an 80s-tinged ruffle top and short black wrap dress with an allover rouge lip print. Inspired by Yves Saint Laurent’s 1971 Vichy Chic collection, the smackers were a somewhat surprising embrace of the house’s history. Tucker’s Gaby Basora employed the motif, too. The New York-based designer collaborated with Solange Azagury-Partridge—best known for her “Hot Lips” baubles—on rosebud blouses and dresses strewn with fuchsia kissers.
If mouthy accessories are more your taste, look no further than Yaz Bukey’s Spring ’14 range. The designer served up a patent cherry bouche bag—as well as a pair of lipstick-shaped earrings for touch-ups. And even on the street, showgoers were donning mouth-embellished duds. Tommy Ton snapped one femme in Paris wearing surreal black driving gloves fit for Dali—the wrists sealed with two bright red kisses.
It’s hard to imagine that anything remotely charming, amusing, or fashionable could come out of last spring’s Findus horsemeat scandal. But then again, one should never underestimate how Yaz Bukey’s mind—or sense of humor—works. “I was so shocked. Now all of a sudden people are thinking more about what we consume. But packaging is why we keep buying, so tonight’s cocktail [party] is a fabulous supermarket,” explained the evening’s “cashier,” dressed in a short, tight red and white Alai-yaz ensemble (circa 1990), with earrings in the shape of pink nail polish bottles. Inside a bubble-wrapped room at the Maison Darré, where Bukey hosted her Spring ’14 presentation, were pinups and Plexi purses shaped like detergent boxes with matching bubble mirrors, a selection of super-flat clutches (a sardine, a toothpaste tube), and a new venture into sunglasses in collaboration with British eyewear company Zanzan. “We met through Instagram: They posted one of my images and everything took off from there,” the designer said.
There’s been lots of talk about the controversial practice of “peacocking” this season. But as we look back at four weeks of Fall ’13 shows with weary eyes, a few designers (and street-style stars) remind us that the f in fashion stands for fun. And perhaps embracing that with a little panache isn’t such a bad thing—particularly when it comes to novelty accessories. Take Dior, for instance: This season, Raf Simons brought a dash of wit to his slick collection by embossing boxy handbags with Warholian sketches of pointy single-soled shoes, thereby fusing two of our favorite things into one. (His raised-eyebrow sunglasses also deserve an honorable mention.) At Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld garnished his handbags with furry multicolored dice (one of which reminds us a little bit of an Angry Bird), and over at Chanel, he sent out models with mini-globe handbags and cobalt, powder-pink, mint-green, or red fur Anna Wintour bobs that looked like they were plucked from an anime cartoon. Speaking of fur, we can’t forget the giant skunk-striped mittens that turned up at Altuzarra or, for that matter, the arctic-appropriate full-length black gloves at Alexander Wang.
We also saw loads of cheeky headgear (Yazbukey‘s Plexiglas heart-and-arrow hat, Piers Atkinson‘s devil-horn cap, Meadham Kirchhoff‘s unicorns-in-love crown), jewelry (Henry Holland‘s crystal martini earrings, Lanvin‘s wildly appropriate “Help” pendants and wasp brooches, Louise Gray‘s eggbeater earrings), and miscellanea (Dsquared²‘s Sunset Boulevard-worthy extra long crystal-encrusted cigarette holders). But the sartorial satire wasn’t just on the runway. Outside the shows, Tommy Ton captured everything from skeleton gloves to Vika Gazinskaya’s scarf, which is made out of what appears to be a stuffed-animal iteration of a lemur. Sure, many of the shows were dark and somber, with their punk themes and muted palettes. But that just made the odd touch of zany all the more welcome.
Accessories designer (and Ottoman princess) Yaz Bukey has been spending time in Istanbul of late. And the city’s landmark nineteenth-century hotel Pera Palace was the starting point for her Fall 2013 Yazbukey collection, which she’s titled “Murder She Wrote.” The designer donned several of her new Plexiglas wares at her party at the Maison Darré last night, including a heart-and-dagger headpiece that grazed the temple of anyone who attempted to kiss her cheek. “My sister lived in Pera Palace years ago, before the renovation,” she recalled. “It was eerie, kind of haunted, and there was a legend about a missing key. Now, it’s a luxury hotel, but I was thinking about the way it used to be, because that’s where Agatha Christie lived while writing Murder on the Orient Express. This collection is an homage to her and to Angela Lansbury, both.”
At the back of the boutique, a living tableau of characters inspired by a Yazbukey take on the board game Clue (caricatures with names like Agatha Fletcher, Poison Yvette, Professor Doremi, and Crazy Scarlett) camped it up around a Plexiglas piano keyboard. Equally notable as the theatric display were Bukey’s figurative necklaces, plastrons, and handmade handbags inlaid with images of lipstick, pearls, eyeglasses, or—the designer’s personal favorite—a handful of detective novels. Burning on a side table was Bukey’s recent collaboration with Cire Trudon—a candle she said was inspired by a fifties pinup on the back of her boyfriend’s motorcycle. Its scent? “Hair spray, lipstick, and leather.”
Label: Yazbukey by Yaz Bukey
Need to know: Paris-based accessories designer Yaz Bukey never fails to coax a smile with her tongue-in-cheek, tromp l’oeil Plexiglas jewelry. This season, the designer presented not only a witty display of colorful baubles but also debuted a handbag range, as well as a selection of playful silk scarves. Inspired by a retro Californian fantasy, the collection was born out of an imaginary sixties motel scenario. In her bizarre, Bukey world, the designer envisioned a scene in which a band, bartender, naughty hotel maid, and guests meet in a kitschy airbrushed paradise. Bukey expresses her vision in key chains shaped like cat-eye sunglasses, studded collars, and lipstick necklaces. Her vintage-tinged tobacco leather handbags and travel cases featured clever, perverse accoutrements, like a pair of leg-shaped zipper tassels that one must pull apart to open the bag. Foulards were printed with fruity cocktails or phrases like “meet me in the lobby,” and the designer further expanded her vision via home accessories, like a giant guitar or motel sign, which can be hung on walls or placed on tables. From her pink hair-dryer pins to the Marilyn Monroe and Elvis pendants, Bukey created an OMG spring outing filled with irreverence, nostalgia, and a cheeky sense of fun.
She says: “I’ve always had a fantasy about the California life, and this collection is about different people meeting in a motel in California in the 1960s. It’s called Tropical Heat Wave, for Marilyn Monroe’s song, because I think there is a little Marilyn in each one of us. She’s not perfect, but I think she was one of the most beautiful women in the world and she was very clever.”
Where to find it: Colette, Joyce Hong Kong, 10 Corso Como, and other select boutiques.