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August 27 2014

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4 posts tagged "Yiqing Yin"

An Inside Look at Iris van Herpen’s ANDAM Win

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irisIris van Herpen is the winner of the 25th edition of the ANDAM Prize. The announcement was made at a cocktail party at the Hotel France-Amérique this evening in Paris, but some Twitter users were in early on the announcement. A stray Tweet made its way online before the jurors—among them first-time members including chairman and CEO of Kering Fçois-Henri Pinault, Estée Lauder’s John Demsey, Condé Nast France president Xavier Romatet, and Caroline de Maigret—adjourned for the day.

In her second year competing for the prize, Van Herpen beat out Fausto Puglisi (who in addition to his own line also creative directs Emanuel Ungaro), Yiqing Yin, Rad Hourani, Steven Tai, Jean-Paul Lespagnard, and the Études Studios trio. The Dutch 29-year-old will receive 250,000 euros and mentorship from Pinault. “It was a real privilege [to participate],” Pinault told Style.com. “The ANDAM Grand Prix is so important for the promotion of young designers in Paris. I didn’t expect this level of maturity, frankly. It was really an honor.” He went on: “I will be mentoring Iris for two seasons, and I intend to give her access to any of our brands that will help her in her project. There’s a great deal of opportunity for her.”

Van Herpen caused a mini-sensation at her first-ever ready-to-wear show for Fall ’14 last March when she suspended three models in shrink-wrapped plastic garbage bags in what she described as commentary on the commodification of the human body. Innovation is at the heart of Van Herpen’s work, and it was a key factor in her win today (as a jury member myself, I can vouch for that). “Until now, I’ve been focusing on couture to give myself the freedom and time to work on new materials and new production methods,” she said, after accepting the prize from Pinault and ANDAM’s Nathalie Dufour. “But I really feel like [my experiments] are ready to translate into the ready-to-wear now.”

Coperni’s Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, who claimed Nicolas Ghesquière and J.W. Anderson as their designer icons, won the 75,000 euro First Collection prize. Meyer, the designer half of the duo, is already a step ahead of some of the competitors in today’s Grand Prize category. He has a business partner in Vaillant. There’s no substitute for creativity. But, pointed out jury member Federico Marchetti of The Corner, “a business partner is something every designer needs.”

Photo: Courtesy Photo

2014 ANDAM Finalists Revealed

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This morning, ANDAM announced its 2014 Fashion Prize finalists. Fausto Puglisi, Iris van Herpen, Steven Tai, Rad Hourani, Yiqing Yin, Études Studio, and Jean-Paul Lespagnard will compete for the award, the winner of which will be announced in Paris this July. Last year’s prize was awarded to menswear youngblood Alexander Mattiusi, while other alums include Giles Deacon, Richard Nicoll, and Gareth Pugh. The ANDAM Fashion Prize, which celebrates its 25th anniversary this year, offers designers a 250,000 Euro prize, a yearlong business mentorship courtesy of Kering’s François-Henri Pinault, and 10,000 Euros of Swarovski crystals. Another trio of talents, Coperni, Gauchère and Monographie, are up for the 75,000 euros First Collections prize. “I am very honored to be apart of this year’s finalists. The ANDAM Award is one of the most globally recognized support for designers over the last 25 years. I am incredibly excited (and a bit nervous too!) to present my work to the jury,” offered Steven Tai. Speaking of the jury, this years judges include Ellen von Unwerth, Caroline de Maigret, Condé Nast France president Xavier Romatet, and Style.com’s own Nicole Phelps, among others. Have a gander at some of the finalists’ designs here.

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Photo: Courtesy Photos 

In Paris, A Varied Crowd Vies For The ANDAM

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Paris Vogue‘s Emmanuelle Alt, Colette’s Sarah Lerfel, Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon, and other fashion insiders—myself included—gathered at the Ritz in blazing-hot Paris today to cast our votes for this year’s ANDAM Fashion Award winner. Last year, the €200,000 prize went to Hakaan Yildirim. This year, Adam Kimmel, Anthony Vaccarello, Commuun, Jeremy Laing, Palmer/Harding, and Yiqing Yin are in the running. (Yin was also up for the newly launched Young Fashion Designer Prize, alongside Calla Haynes and Barnabe Hardy.) I can’t reveal who won until tomorrow night when it will be announced at the French Ministry of Culture, but I can tell you how different the presentations were.

Kimmel, fresh off his “dark surfing” Spring 2012 men’s runway show, said he hates public speaking, then spoke off the cuff and at length. The most interesting tidbit: “For many seasons now, it’s been a dream for me to do womenswear,” he told us. (He designed wife Leelee Sobieski’s suit for the CFDA Awards, left.) Vaccarello, a shy Belgian, barely opened his mouth at all, preferring to let his three prototypes for next season do the talking. Commuun’s Iku Furudate and Kaito Hori tag-teamed, sharing such inspirations for their upcoming show as late fifties cinema, natural graphics, and Japanese architecture. Laing read from well-prepared notes, citing influences from Kawakubo and Yamamoto to Cristobal Balenciaga and Madeleine Vionnet to McQueen, for whom he freelanced for four seasons. Palmer/Harding’s Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding, among the least well-known of the bunch, introduced us to their shirting concept. And Yin gave a sneak preview of her haute couture show next week. She’ll be working extra hard between now and then: She lost one of her three dresses to a scooter tail pipe on the way over. Check back tomorrow for the results.

Photo: Neil Rasmus / BFAnyc.com

Kimmel, Laing, Vaccarello, And More
Among The 2011 ANDAM Prize Nominees

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ANDAM, the French organization devoted to the development of young fashion talent, announced its six finalists for its annual award today, and it’s an international bunch of up-and-comers—some better known than others. Adam Kimmel (a look from whose Fall ’11 men’s collection is above, right), Anthony Vaccarello, Commuun, Jeremy Laing (a look from whose Fall ’11 collection is above, left), Matthew Harding, and Yiqing Yin will go head-to-head in Paris at the end of June. Up for grabs is a €200,000 prize, courtesy of the National Association for the Development of the Fashion Arts, and a yearlong mentorship by Ralph Toledano, formerly of Chloé. Like previous winners Hakaan Yildirim, Giles Deacon, and Gareth Pugh, the designer who takes the prize is obligated to set up operations in France. I’ll be sitting on the jury with, among others, Toledano, Hilary Alexander, Emmanuelle Alt, Sarah Lerfel, Humberto Leon, and ANDAM founder Nathalie Dufour next month. Stay tuned for the blow-by-blow.

Photos: Amanda De Simone / GoRunway.com (Laing); Courtesy of Adam Kimmel (Kimmel)