35 posts tagged "Yohji Yamamoto"
At this point, Gill Linton’s Byronesque has established itself as one of—if not the—premier online vintage-shopping destinations. When I last visited Linton, it was in a room filled with early Alexander McQueen, Comme des Garçons, Alaïa, Issey Miyake, and beyond. (Due to my vintage addiction, it was less full when I left, but that’s beside the point.) One of the most extraordinary pieces on display, however, was Yohji Yamamoto’s sculptural black bustle coat from his Fall 1986 collection. “There’s little [photographic] record of the coat,” offered Linton. “There are only three images of the garment online that we’ve been able to find, one of which is the famous silhouette shot by Nick Knight.” So, seeing as Linton is not only a seller of vintage treasures but a fashion-history devotee, she thought it only appropriate to pay tribute to the coat before it was shipped off to the Costume Institute at the Met, which purchased the rare topper for its archive. Enter My Dear Bustle, a film starring model Chelsea Wichmann, who dances to Zebra Katz x Hervé’s “Tear the House Up” while wearing Yamamoto’s iconic design. “The coat itself is very minimalist, but the sculptured contours of the bustle are quite complex. We wanted to create something that highlighted the craftsmanship of the design in a way that hasn’t been captured before, which was to get movement into an object that is so formidably sculptural,” explained Linton. “The slightest movement radically changed its appearance and added a sensuousness. We juxtaposed that with hard cuts in the edit, which were obviously led by the house baseline of Zebra Katz’s track,” Linton told me, noting that the contemporary tune helped underscore the coat’s timeless and forward-thinking aesthetic. “We love that we used a track reviewed as a ‘sweaty, dirty club hit.’ It’s so very not vintage, and that’s exactly what we set out to achieve. We wanted to show how contemporary the coat still is today. We never show vintage from a nostalgic perspective, it’s always about why it works now.”
Have an exclusive first look at My Dear Bustle above. And to view additional editorial content, absorb a feast of fashion history lessons, and shop a menagerie of delicious vintage wares, visit byronesque.com.
If, like me, you are a Japanese design devotee, get ready to empty your savings account. Lynn Yaeger, acclaimed fashion journalist, New York eccentric, and aggressive wearer of Comme des Garçons, was recently appointed as the curator of vintage clothing at Yoox.com. The release of her first shoppable selection happened to coincide with Yoox’s 10th anniversary of launching in Japan. And what better way to celebrate than with a range of hard-to-find items designed by Japanese fashion demigods like Issey Miyake, Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo, Kansai Yamamoto, Kenzo Takada, Yohji Yamamoto, and Junya Watanabe? “These clothes are revolutionary in their conception and execution,” Yaeger told The Independent of the collection, which she’s titled “Mezurashi Hakken,” or “Rare Discovery” in English. “They are beyond season, they never date. Clothes that look a little strange on the hanger can be wonderful on the body. For this collection, each piece had to be a unique, interesting example of each designer’s contribution, and they have to be wearable,” added Yaeger, who reportedly scoured the world to hunt down these pivotal pieces. Judging by the number of garments that are heartbreakingly marked SOLD, it would seem that Yaeger’s debut Yoox effort is going pretty well. With that in mind, I advise you to shop quickly—these vintage treasures won’t last.
“There’s a lot of ugly vintage out there,” said Byronesque founder Gill Linton. “I look at some vintage stores, and I’m like, ‘This is trash. It’s not fashion. There’s no story behind it. And you’re giving it such a bad name.’” You won’t find any of that rubbish on Linton’s website, which she launched in 2012 with the help of Marvin Traub Associates and Theory’s Andrew Rosen. As a die-hard vintage addict (and frequent Byronesque browser), I can personally attest to the fact that Linton only sells the crème de la crème of previously loved designer clothes and that Byronesque is the prime source of authentic vintage—i.e., clothes over twenty years old—on the Web. Byronesque is a veritable vault of lust-worthy vintage wares by the likes of Azzedine Alaïa, Vivienne Westwood, Pierre Cardin, Thierry Mugler, and more. So naturally, when Linton invited me to a private viewing of the latest additions to the site—which will be available to stylists for shoots for the first time—last week, I scurried on over.
Buyers from the Met had beat me to the event and scooped up an original 1920s frock, an authentic 1980s Yohji Yamamoto bustle coat (famously snapped by Nick Knight), a rare white crucifix-embellished Alaïa, and a sculptural black-and-white Issey Miyake gown. “I do love when they go to good homes,” Linton said of the museum’s purchases. The Met’s interest in Linton’s finds is a testament to her well-trained eye and standout merchandise. And despite the museum’s informed acquisitions, there was still much in the collection to gawk at. A custom-made Alexander McQueen three-piece men’s suit (complete with his signature lock of hair), an almost uptown-apropos lemon Galliano frock (“Though you wouldn’t see quite this much fashion tit on the Upper East Side,” laughed Linton), and a 1990s warrior-inspired Comme des Garçons ensemble comprise just a sampling of what’s available. “This is what we call contemporary vintage,” explained Linton. “It’s different from being classic—classic is safe. But it’s relevant and wearable today, and nobody’s going to say you look like an extra in Downton Abbey or an Austin Powers movie.” To wit, one of Linton’s colleagues turned up to the soiree wearing shorts by Rick Owens, which were the spitting image of the vintage Armani “Wigger Shorts” that hung on the rack next to him.
Many of the most covetable pieces, like a serious supermodel-era neon tweed bra, shorts, and jacket by Chanel; the abovementioned Issey Miyake look; a cracked leather McQueen coat; a sea foam tulle Yves Saint Laurent dress; and an iconic leopard-print Alaïa frock, are courtesy of two singular women: model Irina Pantaeva and pop star Cristina Monet. The former was a muse to Miyake, and was actually photographed by Irving Penn wearing the gown purchased by the Met. The latter was a post-punk music maven with a miniature waist and impeccable taste. Their clothes have stories behind them—not only because they were designed by icons, but because of the life these women gave them. And that life, along with the garments’ superior aesthetic and quality, is what Linton is selling. “I really want people to feel excited about these clothes and their past,” Linton told us. After thumbing through this selection, it’s hard not to be.
Byronesque’s latest offering will be available on the website next week, but to reserve your favorite piece ahead of the pack, e-mail email@example.com.