27 posts tagged "Yohji Yamamoto"
Christian Lacroix, Haider Ackermann, Martine Sitbon, Bruno Frisoni. They all gathered at the Palais de Tokyo last night for a one-of-a-kind, one-woman fashion show: The Impossible Wardrobe, conceived and curated by the Musée Galliera’s Olivier Saillard and starring none other than Tilda Swinton. The performance lasted nearly 40 minutes, or about four times the normal length of a fashion show. No one minded. On the contrary, the crowd gave the duo a standing ovation.
Wearing white gloves, a lab coat, and beige suede pumps, Swinton variously carried, clutched, and presented vintage clothes and accessories up and down the runway, making eye contact with the audience along the way and pausing in front of a mirror to measure up how she might look if she was allowed to put them on. “It’s not possible to wear the clothes in a museum,” Saillard said, by way of explaining the show’s concept and name. “If Tilda hadn’t accepted our proposal, we wouldn’t have done it.” Above Swinton, a news ticker spelled put the pieces’ provenance, and there were some truly special items here: a 1968 Paco Rabanne dress worn by Brigitte Bardot, Elsa Schiaparelli-designed gloves with built-in gold talons from 1936, an embroidered top that belonged to Isadora Duncan in the 1920s, even a tailcoat covered in gold bullion worn by Napoleon. The Oscar winner actually sniffed the collar on that one, as if to get a sense of his essence. “C’est sublime,” said Bouchra Jarrar afterward. “A new way to talk about the history of fashion. One must never forget history.” In the history of this season, this will rank as one of its most fabulous moments.
CLICK HERE for a slideshow of Swinton wearing some of the pieces from the Musée Galliera collection >
Mickey Drexler Is Everywhere At The J.Crew Headquarters, Three Finnish Designers Win Top Honors At The Hyères Festival, Fern Mallis Gets the Pratt Lifetime Achievement Award, And More…
At J.Crew’s office, out of sight isn’t out of mind. CEO Mickey Drexler installed a P.A. system to share thoughts, insights, and occasionally, Bruce Springsteen tracks with the entire staff—even when he’s not around. “”He…checks in from holiday,” Jenna Lyons tells the Observer. “He’s like: ‘Hey, I’m in Saint-Tropez; it’s gorgeous here! Anyway, I’m having lunch at Club 55 and you should see all these people wearing white! We should do more white, it’s summer, do we have enough white?’ It’s hilarious—I love it.” [Observer]
Finnish design trio Siiri Raasakka, Tiia Siren, and Elina Laitinen have been awarded the L’Oréal Professional Jury Grand Prix for the 27th Hyères Festival at the Villa Noailles. The young designers, chosen by a jury that included Yohji Yamamoto, Olivier Saillard, and more, will receive a €15,000 grant and a chance to show their collections during Spring 2013 Paris fashion week. [Paris Vogue]
Former CFDA executive director and senior vice president of IMG Fashion Fern Mallis has been honored with the Pratt Institute’s Fashion Industry Lifetime Achievement Award. The award was presented to the fashion veteran last week by Calvin Klein, who described her as a “referee” to designers. [WWD]
The U.K. may have found its next top model. Harper Beckham, daughter of Victoria and David, may be only 9 months old, but she’s already got her first offer in hand. Personalized baby gift company My1stYears.com has sent an open letter addressed to Harper herself requesting her modeling services. [Telegraph]
It’s rare to see new designers joining the Milan fashion week ranks. Rarer still for that designer to be a Chinese woman. Uma Wang, an alumnus of China Textile University and Central Saint Martins in London and the founder of a nearly seven-year-old eponymous line with a flagship store in Shanghai, made her Italian debut on Sunday night. Guests who managed to squeeze her show in between Aquilano.Rimondi and Versus witnessed a collection from the Yohji Yamamoto and Ann Demeulemeester school of fashion. Colors were mostly blacks and neutrals, with a hit or two of red, and her cuts, for the most part, were asymmetric and unconstructed. There was a focus on innovative knitwear and dramatic coats—often in one piece. It’s too soon to say if Wang will be back next season (she showed in Paris once last year), but wherever she ends up, she’s a designer to watch.
It’s been ten years since Yohji Yamamoto first collaborated with Adidas, a collaboration which eventually became the full Y-3 collection. On the last night of men’s fashion week in Paris, Adidas set out to celebrate the decennial at the city’s Maison des Métallos, where sneakers from throughout the partnership’s history were on display and a film the German label commissioned about Y-3′s Spring collection, Yohji Yamamoto: This Is My Dream, was projected on the wall. The Japanese legend himself was under the weather and couldn’t attend but his collaborator, Adidas Sports Style (a division which includes Y-3) creative director Dirk Schoenberger, was happy to hymn him in his absence. “Working with Yohji is working with one of the few iconic designers alive, basically,” Schoenberger said, praising his “unique voice” and the alchemy of mixing his vision of fashion with sportswear. Speaking of that admixture—what, then, to expect of Y-3′s next collection, which will be shown in New York in February? The creative director was shy on the topic. “I don’t want to give away too much,” he demurred. But those looking for a preview needed only look to another chamber of the space, where, on a mini-runway, models in groups of fives walked in place on embedded treadmills (a very clever combination of fashion and sporting, that). There were tailored pieces like a black blazer featuring sporty nylon sleeves and varsity-jacket banding at the waist and cuffs, and Fair Isle knits scattered throughout, whether as a soft-looking hoodie or the sleeves of another, blue blazer.
There’s been an explosion of florals and flower prints on the runways, and you can trust that if a trend is in the offing, Nick Knight will not be far behind. Case in point: The latest exhibition at SHOWStudio’s Mayfair gallery, Florist, which opens tomorrow. The Web site-cum-gallery project is celebrating its 10th birthday this year, and Knight decided a few bouquets would be a fitting anniversary gift. “Of course there is no better birthday gift than flowers,” he told Style.com. “When you think about it, so many fashion photographers were quite taken by flowers—Irving Penn, Robert Mapplethorpe and Baron Adolph de Meyer all trained their lenses on blossoms as a bit of a hobby. I’m not going to say that it is cleansing or anything, but….”
Vivienne Westwood, Yohji Yamamoto, Lady Amanda Harlech, Guy Bourdin, and Sølve Sundsbø (whose work is pictured) are a few of the celebrants to craft a floral gift—in any shape—to contribute. (Those shapes have taken the form of photos, dresses, head pieces and one-off objets d’art.) During the week, designers like Mary Katrantzou and Stephen Jones will also create pieces live, to be broadcast in real time from the Bruton Street studios. Knight has also snared the likes of John Galliano, Gareth Pugh, Hussein Chalayan, and Kate Moss to create their own interpretation of flowers, all to come during the winter-long exhibit.
No doubt a decade in the business is a thing worth celebrating—we’ve just finished doing the same ourselves, in fact. And Knight’s highlight of the past ten years? “Definitely, the SHOWstudio’s work in fashion films, which is still rather uncharted territory,” he said. “It’s an amazing knowing that every day there is something to create, something waiting to be invented. It’s a feeling that makes me want to jump out of bed every morning.”