2 posts tagged "Y/Project"
“Y/Project has always been sophisticated and rough,” says Glenn Martens, the Belgian designer who stepped in last September after the passing of Y/Project’s visionary founder, Yohan Serfaty. For the Spring/Summer 2015 men’s collection, Martens established a new balance between these two poles by subjecting natural fabrics like linen to a battery of technical surface treatments. Bonded, waxed, plasticized, and oiled, Y/Project’s cleaned-up Perfectos and knee pants in linen and cotton worn with translucent biker racing tops shed light on the brand’s signature gritty, urban vibe.
“I liked the idea of giving these cool, summer fabrics some shine, but when you look closely at the surface you can see the cracks,” says Martens, who dedicated this collection to kids of the eighties and nineties. “Everyone I work with at Y is young, but even if we finish at 11 p.m. on Friday, we still want to go out,” he says. There’s light and shadow play in Y’s reflective parkas and trousers that seem to have been turned inside out to show off seaming construction. Martens lightened up the house leathers in airy, wrinkled finishes for shirt jackets and dipped into the Y archives for metal clips, inspired by riding clothes, to attach patch pockets to leather jackets and pants.
While colors are mostly dark, Martens injected light with naturally iridescent lime yellow-green for the biker tailoring and one spacey print: a photo of draping, recolored in a polychrome spectrum in silk satin wavy stripes and a jellyfish-like splash across slinky dark tees. The new Y has a feminine side as well. Martens slipped pieces of his women’s pre-collection into this show: clingy hourglass silk jerseys for sultry street angels and suits with elegant, deeply pleated, wide-belted raw silk three-quarter coats.
Since September, Belgian designer Glenn Martens has been carrying on in the spirit of Y/Project founder Yohan Serfaty, who passed away last April. But whereas Serfaty specialized in a mostly leather menswear line, Martens has, in addition to designing menswear, been spinning out his late mentor’s style into a full-fledged women’s collection. On the docket for Fall: easy, urban pieces such as elegant but streetwise leather coats made of wide, vertical sweeping panels that sway with its wearer’s gait (or, as Martens put it, “They explode when you walk.”). Serfaty was a strong tailor, and that influence is evident in sharp, menswear-inspired suits with raw cut finishes; oversize blazers; jackets with clever zip work; and wide, comfortable silk pants. Elsewhere, there were thoughtful multifunctional pieces such as a top run through with vertical drawstrings that can do double duty as a dress. “I love that duality. When you’re running around and your day is never-ending, you have to be prepared,” the designer said. “You can make it work to your body.” Judging by the early response (the line has already been picked up by a bevy of retailers, including ØDD in New York), it won’t be long before bodies stateside will be working that vibe.