4 posts tagged "Z Zegna"
This afternoon, the fashion set chowed down on bacon, rigatoni, and cream sauce, which can mean only one thing: the biannual Pitti Immagine Uomo/W luncheon. Held at downtown Italian eatery Da Silvano, the afternoon gathering gave Pitti CEO Raffaello Napoleone the opportunity to speak with press, buyers, and more about the plans for the Spring ’15 Florence fashion fair—and boy, are there a lot of them. 2014 marks the 60th anniversary of the Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana (essentially the organizing body for all things fashion in Firenze), so in addition to exhibitions and presentations from emerging and established designers, fairgoers will be treated to a three-museum exhibition by Francesco Vezzoli, who will insert his own work among classical paintings, sculptures, etc.; an opening opera starring Andrea Bocelli; an exhibition of Roman costume atelier Sartoria Tirelli’s confections; a bevy of film screenings; the debut of Nick Wooster’s capsule collection; and more. Also on the docket? Florence-born brands Salvatore Ferragamo, Gucci, Emilio Pucci, and Ermanno Scervino will each host special events.
As reported last month, Z Zegna will be the featured guest menswear designer, but there will be no guest womenswear designer this season due to the many other events on the itinerary. We suppose the abovementioned powerhouses’ Florence-centric projects will suffice. “We don’t want it to be just another fair,” Napoleone told Style.com while sipping a glass of vino rosso. “We want to create a cultural experience.” Provided the itinerary lives up to expectations, it seems he’s done just that.
The overcrowded menswear schedule also came up in discussion this afternoon. If you’ll remember, there was a bit of a tiff between Pitti Uomo and the London Collections: Men last season, as the recently founded London shows conflicted with the Florence fair. “There will be no more troubles in 2015,” announced Napoleone. While the showcases will once again overlap this time around, next season the calendar for all four cities will shift, allowing London, Florence, Milan, and Paris each to have its fair share of time in the spotlight. (This helps explore the new dates for Paris Couture, too.) “This is better for everyone,” asserted Napoleone, telling us that it took one year to reach the final agreement. “Having four menswear events in Europe is a good opportunity because the manufacturers will remain strong and [we] can drive the [menswear] sensibility,” he added. It’s nice to see all the fashion cities (finally) playing nice.
Pitti Immagine announced today that Z Zegna will be this year’s Guest Designer, an honor that comes with a special presentation for the collection during the fair, opening June 16. Designer Paul Surridge’s effort to modernize the Zegna brand seems to be paying off, as he joins past Guest Designers including Kenzo, Carven, and Damir Doma. That puts Surridge in position to carry the torch for cool, forward-looking menswear at this year’s show. Gaetano Marzotto, president of Pitti Immagine, had this to say: “This young and innovative collection reinterprets formalwear by combining it with sporty materials and themes inspired by city lifestyles, and therefore, is very much in tune with the entire cutting-edge area of our fair.”
Additionally, this year marks the sixtieth anniversary of Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana, and to celebrate, Pitti will host a series of events throughout Florence with famed Florentine designers Salvatore Ferragamo, Gucci, Emilio Pucci, Roberto Cavalli, and Ermanno Scervino.
Vintage Cardin For Sale (Cardin Included), Galliano Goes It Alone, Sartori Explores New Sartorial Frontiers, And More…-------
Got a spare $1.46 billion dollars? The Pierre Cardin label could be yours! Monsieur Cardin has put his namesake brand up for sale—only catch (or bonus, depending on your point of view): Cardin himself comes with. [WSJ]
John Galliano’s trial is set to begin next week—without Galliano’s lawyer, Stephane Zerbib. Rumors circulating earlier had Zerbib quitting, but Team JG has released a statement claiming the attorney was fired. [Vogue U.K.]
Alessandro Sartori, creative director of Z Zegna, is stepping into new shoes, career-wise. After eight years at Zegna, he will leave his position and move to luxury footwear specialist Berluti. Head designer of Jil Sander menswear Paul Surridge is set to take his place. [WWD]
Kristen McMenamy’s reign continues. The silver-haired supe covers the latest Italian Vogue and shows she’s just as game at 46 as any of her younger colleagues to show some skin. It’s Vogue Italia: The Swimsuit Issue! [Huffington Post]
Noticed at the Italian menswear shows: a curious incidence of brilliant orange, from fiery ochres (at Prada) to more golden tones (woven into embroidered pants at Haider Ackermann and used for supple leathers at Etro).
Clockwise from top left: Prada, Prada, Z Zegna, Haider Ackermann, Jil Sander, Etro.