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July 29 2014

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8 posts tagged "Zandra Rhodes"

Pretty in Punk with Zandra Rhodes

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The Fall 2013 shows come to a close in Paris today, and a quick survey of the collections will tell you that punk is back in a big way: nails, vinyl, and tartan at Versace, Mohawks at Fendi, spiky shoes at Anthony Vaccarello, chain boots and leather waders at Chanel, the list goes on. British designer Zandra Rhodes, for one, is thrilled. “A pair of safety pins is just as beautiful as embroidery,” she said of punk’s place on the runway. And she should know—with her 1977 Conceptual Chic collection, Rhodes became one of the first (if not the first) designers to translate the gritty, antiestablishment subculture into high-fashion wares. “I had always done things covered in print, and I had a very elegant shop [on Bond Street], but I suddenly wanted to try out something different,” said Rhodes when asked why she made the 1977 collection, which earned her the title Princess of Punk.

Featuring shredded pink, red, and black dresses, tops, and skirts held together by bejeweled safety pins and chains, Conceptual Chic was a sharp departure from the vivid printed party frocks and caftans for which Rhodes was known. But that’s not to say the designer, who has, for the past few decades, flawlessly multicolored hair and geometric makeup, was a stranger to the punk spirit. “I don’t think a self-respecting street punk would have described me as [a punk], but I had a very wild appearance that was totally my own. And it was influenced by [punk culture],” said Rhodes. “There was this whole street movement going on, and I was really trying to look at it from another angle; I wanted to see the beauty that could come from it,” she added, noting that Vivienne Westwood’s die-hard punk designs were not a direct influence. “We worked totally independently. Westwood was on one side of the scale, working on her things, and I was on the other side, working on mine. Neither of us have had any contact.” Continue Reading “Pretty in Punk with Zandra Rhodes” »

Anarchy In the Met

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“Fashion has lost its edge,” said curator Andrew Bolton at a preview of the Met’s upcoming 2013 Punk: Chaos to Couture exhibition yesterday morning. The statement was in response to a query about why the Met chose to explore the rebellious seventies subculture at this particular time. “Punks were so brave and noble. I just think fashion needs an injection of that at the moment,” the curator told Style.com.

If the garments that joined Bolton on the podium during his introduction to the exhibition (looks from McQueen, Chanel, and Rodarte among them) were any indication, punk has been fighting its way into fashion for quite some time—since Zandra Rhodes’s slash- and safety-pin-infused 1977 “Conceptual Chic” collection, to be exact. The new show, explained Bolton, is a prequel to the Met’s 2006 Anglomania and will examine punk as an aesthetic, rather than an attitude. “Punk smashed every convention,” he said. “It prized originality, authenticity, and individualism.” While counterintuitive, these qualities, he said, put punk on the same, or at least a very similar, plane as couture. Continue Reading “Anarchy In the Met” »

Signed, Sealed, Delivered—And Stamped With A McQueen, Too

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“Stylish” might not be a word typically associated with postage stamps, but the new set from Britain’s Royal Mail celebrating post-war British fashion is just that. Sølve Sundsbø shot models wearing looks by English legends like Ossie Clark, Zandra Rhodes, Vivienne Westwood, Tommy Nutter, and Alexander McQueen, their faces obscured in the same style he used for the Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibition catalog.

Photos: Sølve Sundsbø

‘Trique’s Treat; A Rebel Yell; Collecting: “An Incurable Illness”; And More…

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Fashion’s newest viral video hero is Patrick Pope—a.k.a. P’Trique—who lambasts fashionese in his popular “Shit Fashion Girls Say” series. He’s already got high-profile sponsorship, thanks to Maybelline, but a Met ball ticket apparently still eludes him. What would he wear if he found a last-minute invite? “An amalgamation of harnesses, cutouts, and metallics…with the theme of, like, an underwater Chanel-y sea bride. Like if Ariel was alive today and friends with Karl, but more nouveau.” [WWD]

Early Morning Rebel took London by storm last fashion week, playing several shows and parties and earning a fan base that includes Zandra Rhodes and designer Francesca Marotta. They’re in talks to return to London fashion week next season, but in the meantime, the L.A.-based band plays a free show tonight at New York’s Soho House. [EMR]

Levi’s is taking on the Champs-Élysees, with a 7,000-square-foot flagship store set to open at the end of this week. The all-American denim brand is no stranger to France—Levi’s has 22 stores in Paris alone. [WWD]

“Collecting is a wonderful illness,” says auctioneer Simon de Pury during an on-film conversation with style icon and cultural patron Daphne Guinness about “connoisseurship and collecting,” in a two-part video series that debuts on Nowness today. But would-be buyers beware, warns de Pury: “It’s incurable.” [Nowness]

Kanye West keeps on mining the fashion world for talent. His latest collaborator is Ruth Hogben, who created a promo video for “Lost in the World,” his latest single. Hogben knows something about over-the-top styling: She’s worked frequently with Gareth Pugh. [Telegraph]

 

 

 

Photos: Stefanie Keenan / WWD

 

An Amy Winehouse Explosion You’ll Actually Want To See

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If you’re in Milan over the next week, take a break from fashion (and Bistrot Giacomo) to explore the mind of Bouke de Vries. Literally. The first Italian exhibition of the artist’s work—practically the first exhibition of his work anywhere—is called A Grand Tour of My Mind. De Vries, Utrecht-born but London-based, is a ceramic conservator with a fashion background (he’s worked for John Galliano, Stephen Jones, and Zandra Rhodes) who tweaked his day job a little to compose extraordinary “exploded” artworks from pieces deemed un-repairable. There’s a philosophical point being made about our notions of perfection (de Vries asks, why is the Venus de Milo venerated despite being armless, while Meissen porcelain with an almost invisible crack is virtually worthless?), but what you’re more likely to respond to is the elegance, the sly wit, and the poignancy of de Vries’ frozen moments. One of his 2009 pieces, called No No No, featured a chic but shattered nineteenth-century porcelain figure that was a ringer for Amy Winehouse. He sold that one to London collector Anita Zabludowicz, considered a weather vane of things to come in the art world. Since then, other collectors have been beating a path to de Vries’ door. Here’s your opportunity to catch a rapidly rising star.
A Grand Tour of My Mind opens tomorrow and runs through April 14 at the GLORIAMARIAgallery, 32 Via Watt, Milan, www.gloriamariagallery.com. (The artist’s own Web site also has a fantastic gallery of his work.)

Photo: Bouke de Vries, Courtesy of GLORIAMARIAgallery