8 posts tagged "Zani Gugelmann"
For French heritage brand Saint James, not a lot changes from year to year. They’ve made their name on their Breton stripe shirts (the shirt that has been part of the French naval uniform since 1848) and that’s what customers keep coming back for.
This week, their loyal fans get even more to love with the debut of the eight-piece Saint James capsule collection exclusively for Barneys. For the series of menswear styles ($115-$625, hitting Barneys stores this week), which includes crewneck sweatshirts, henleys, and a bomber jacket, the brand enlisted former Freemans Sporting Club creative director Martin Carvajal to create looks to complement the Saint James core classics. Fashion insiders will get a first in-person look at the collection at a private launch party in New York tonight, but before then, Style.com has an early glimpse at the accompanying calendar. The photos, lensed by Backyard Bill, feature a series of personalities (and longtime Saint James wearers) including Glenn O’Brien, his son Oscar O’Brien, Zani Gugelmann, Paddle8 founder Alexander Gilkes (pictured, above), The Fat Radish chef Benjamin Towill, Hudson Clearwater owners John and Mark Barboni (pictured, below), and Angus McIntosh of Saturdays Surf, all wearing the new looks along with some of the brand’s staple items. “My father’s navy Breton Saint James jumper would always be a staple item in his weekend bat-suit,” Gilkes tells Style.com. “I was proudly able to emulate him when I was finally given my mini version, which I would wear with my favorite Postman Pat wellies.” Also coming soon from Saint James: a new Manhattan flagship shop. We’re guessing this calendar crowd will be especially happy about that.
Delvaux, the Belgian luxury goods house, was all but an insider’s secret until Barneys began carrying the line last fall. Since then, its brand of subtle, sophisticated luxury has been gaining ground as a new favorite among those who prefer to take their luxe logo-less. But Delvaux isn’t new. The house was founded in 1829 and has been the Official Purveyor to the Court of Belgium since 1883—a fact that could fly under the radar if you’re not tracking the comings and goings of Crown Princess Mathilde with the same zeal as, say, of Alexa Chung.
Heritage and craftsmanship are Delvaux’s buzzwords, which helps to explain why the 15,000 bags it makes a year all come out of its Brussels atelier, L’Arsenal, a former military arsenal from the turn of the century, each one produced start to finish by a single artisan and his two apprentices. The styles, too, are classic: The Delvaux Brillant dates from 1958, and the Tempête, from 1967. (Colors keep the offerings current; the Brillant will arrive in emerald green this spring, as do special editions: The Brillant GM Souple was developed especially for Barneys.)
With its emphasis on history—and its four-figure price tags—Delvaux tends to attract an older consumer. But as the label hopes to show in a new series of videos by director and videographer Jake Davis, they work just as well on aristocratic ladies of a certain age, like legendary model Carmen Dell’Orefice (above), as on younger socials like Zani Gugelmann (below) and even bohemiennes like perfumer, hotelier, and scarf designer Francesca Bonato (bottom), who with her model husband, Nicolas Malleville, runs fashion’s favorite hideaway: Coqui Coqui in Tulum, Mexico. Continue Reading “The Many Faces Of Delvaux” »
Jack Vartanian hadn’t been thinking of snakes, per se, when he began working on his Spring ’11 jewelry collection, the designer explained last night at an unveiling dinner at Le Charlot on the Upper East Side. But when he happened on a Brazilian rock, striated with epidote, which he turned into a chunky, faceted cocktail ring (above left), the combination of colors got him thinking. The stone resembled nothing so much as an abstracted python skin, and from it, the 25-piece Python collection was born. (Only part of it was on display last night, due to a customs snafu—snakes on a plane, indeed.) The pieces pick up on the theme of serpents—they’re prevalent in his native Brazil, Vartanian explained, where they symbolize the cycle of nature, birth and rebirth—in sapphire, black quartz, and that epidote stone. Snake heads became rings twining around fingers (above right), cuffs, earrings, and pendants, and the faceted cocktail ring found expression as a pair of dangling earrings, too. They were met with a hiss of approval by dinner guests like Zani Gugelmann, Bettina Prentice, and co-hostess Kate Young. But Vartanian’s best spokesperson has always been his wife, the gorgeous Brazilian model Cassia Avila. She sparkled in the new collection, looking every bit the serpentine beauty herself.
“I think true minimalism came and had its moment,” Reed Krakoff (left, with wife Delphine) explained last night at his new Madison Avenue flagship. Surprising words from a designer whose silhouettes are renowned for their streamlined fluidity, and one who had Stella Tennant—that androgynous avatar of nineties restraint—open his Spring 2011 runway show. (She’ll host the designer’s Saks debut next week, too.) “I’m calling what I do now a warm minimalism. It has minimalist roots—but it’s really more about New York style, pared down,” he clarified. Fitting, then, that the occasion was a benefit fête for the Director’s Council of the Museum of the City of New York. “There’s a renewed acceptance of romance and femininity”—and certainly, the uptown set shopping over cocktails, including Zani Gugelmann, Tara Rockefeller, and Celerie Kemble, looked plenty accepting indeed.
Fall was in the air and the temperatures were cooling, but, Krakoff said, “I’m excited that everyone else also seems to be going lighter and brighter again. Things are warming up.” That would appear to apply to the brand’s expansion plans, too. The new RK flagship on Madison is up and running, as is Tokyo’s, and stores are being planned worldwide. “It’s pretty systematic,” he said modestly. “I create a unified concept and apply it to everything. The clothing will inform the shoes; the shoes will inform the bags.” he explains. And, now, the jewelry, too; you’ll be able to purchase his newest runway baubles, made with Christian Astuguevielle, at his New York and Tokyo stores next season.