4 posts tagged "Zebra Katz"
At this point, Gill Linton’s Byronesque has established itself as one of—if not the—premier online vintage-shopping destinations. When I last visited Linton, it was in a room filled with early Alexander McQueen, Comme des Garçons, Alaïa, Issey Miyake, and beyond. (Due to my vintage addiction, it was less full when I left, but that’s beside the point.) One of the most extraordinary pieces on display, however, was Yohji Yamamoto’s sculptural black bustle coat from his Fall 1986 collection. “There’s little [photographic] record of the coat,” offered Linton. “There are only three images of the garment online that we’ve been able to find, one of which is the famous silhouette shot by Nick Knight.” So, seeing as Linton is not only a seller of vintage treasures but a fashion-history devotee, she thought it only appropriate to pay tribute to the coat before it was shipped off to the Costume Institute at the Met, which purchased the rare topper for its archive. Enter My Dear Bustle, a film starring model Chelsea Wichmann, who dances to Zebra Katz x Hervé’s “Tear the House Up” while wearing Yamamoto’s iconic design. “The coat itself is very minimalist, but the sculptured contours of the bustle are quite complex. We wanted to create something that highlighted the craftsmanship of the design in a way that hasn’t been captured before, which was to get movement into an object that is so formidably sculptural,” explained Linton. “The slightest movement radically changed its appearance and added a sensuousness. We juxtaposed that with hard cuts in the edit, which were obviously led by the house baseline of Zebra Katz’s track,” Linton told me, noting that the contemporary tune helped underscore the coat’s timeless and forward-thinking aesthetic. “We love that we used a track reviewed as a ‘sweaty, dirty club hit.’ It’s so very not vintage, and that’s exactly what we set out to achieve. We wanted to show how contemporary the coat still is today. We never show vintage from a nostalgic perspective, it’s always about why it works now.”
Have an exclusive first look at My Dear Bustle above. And to view additional editorial content, absorb a feast of fashion history lessons, and shop a menagerie of delicious vintage wares, visit byronesque.com.
Rick Owens creates worlds more than fashion. His shows are famous for their otherworldly ambience, from the mise-en-scène (from foam to fire to electrifying light shows) to the soundtrack. For his Fall ’12 women’s show, he played Zebra Katz’s then little-known “Ima Read.” A star was born.
For his follow-up, the Spring ’13 menswear show, Owens paired Matthew Stone, London’s music director-artist-provocateur of choice, with his own wife, Michèle Lamy, to record a track called “How Do You Feel” at the London studio David Bowie used for his early albums. He spun the track at the show, then sent it off to a handful of DJs—including Katz, Mister Tweeks (who mixed the soundtrack for his Spring ’13 women’s show), and Richelle (who will do music for the next men’s outing)—to remix. “This is all about fanboy worship,” Owens says. “I’ve been listening to music from all of these guys for a while, and having Michèle and Matthew do my runway music for the last Spring show gave me the perfect excuse to do something with them all. I was tickled pink with the results.”
“The entire project was just pure indulgence,” the designer explains, and so the results—pressed on vinyl (printed with an Owens shot of Lamy, taken on a deserted island near Venice) and whipped digitally into MP3—are available gratis while they last at Owens’ flagship stores. Says Rick: “First come, first served.”
Since her debut in 2001, Denmark-born footwear designer Camilla Skovgaard has garnered a cult following—including celebrities like Gwyneth Paltrow and Charlize Theron. Tonight, the designer is in New York to premiere her very first fashion short directed by her longtime friend Ali F. Mostafa and with custom music by Zebra Katz, the artist who made plenty of noise on the runway at Rick Owens last season. The video showcases Skovgaard’s latest collection, and will be shown at The Hole Gallery downtown.
Of their initial brainstorming meeting, Mostafa says, “I was shown books on amputees, nudes, trippy reference films on Youtube, as well as music by Zebra Katz.” He explains, “Camilla wanted a grunginess to it, as well as it being stylistic. Having all of that information, I decided for all those physicalities to be on individual people who were tenants of Room 77, in Hotel Skovgaard.” As for the sounds, Zebra Katz’s Ojay Morgan says, the vocals “are snippets from a forthcoming collaboration with a U.K.-based artist named Touch.”
Skovgaard tells Style.com, “I wanted to portray women in a different light—not the traditional sense of sexy in a dainty little pose with a cocked ankle in high heels. I absolutely loathe that.” Style.com got a first look at the dark, moody film and can confirm that the parties involved can consider their mission accomplished. Hotel Skovgaard and its various personalities are anything but traditional. The message is the same that she sends with her shoe designs: Eccentric is beautiful. Here, some exclusive stills from the film before its debut tonight.
The song of Fall ’12 Paris fashion week? No question—Zebra Katz’s (pictured, left) vogue culture-referencing “Ima Read.” Credit for that goes to Rick Owens (pictured, right), who blasted the song as the soundtrack to his fire-and-brimstone (literally!) Fall womenswear show. (“It’s a Rick Owens show, it’s not Disney World,” the designer shrugs.) Dazed & Confused brought the two provocateurs together for a video interview and a little photo shoot. Clothes, naturally, are by Rick Owens. The hat is Katz’s—but if Rick started making them, we’d have no objections. Check out the full video here.