11 posts tagged "Zimmermann"
It’s hard to believe that the end of the summer is just around the corner. But there is still time to get in a few last-minute beach getaways before putting all of your warm-weather clothes in storage. And what’s a better way to celebrate your last few days at the beach than wearing a brand-new bathing suit? From Agent Provocateur’s cutout creation to Zimmermann’s perfect floral bikini, see our picks to ride out the last waves of summer in style.
1. Madewell telegraph stripe string bikini top, $34.99, and bottom, $34.99, www.madewell.com
2. Michael Kors color-block scuba swimsuit, $327, similar styles available at www.bergdorfgoodman.com
3. Agent Provocateur Mazzy swimsuit, $450, www.agentprovocateur.com
4. Mara Hoffman Inca printed bikini, $215, www.saksfifthavenue.com
5. Zimmermann floral-print bikini, $225, www.net-a-porter.com
6. Lisa Marie Fernandez + Peter Pilotto Leigh swimsuit, $190, www.matchesfashion.com
To view more looks, click here.
Fashion’s scope is undeniably global. If you’ve been keeping up with Tommy Ton’s latest street-style dispatches, you already know that right now, the action is in Sydney, where it’s all about showcasing local talent. This season, when Aussie heavyweights Dion Lee and Josh Goot pulled out at the last minute (reportedly to focus on building their respective international presences), it gave up-and-comers a chance to seize the spotlight. The week kicked off with Romance Was Born’s action-packed collection, featuring graphic prints borrowed from Marvel comics. Yes, we’ve already seen cartoon couture stateside from Phillip Lim, but this lineup had plenty of its own ka-pow. Other memorable moments included the directional, draped looks in rich-colored silks from Ellery (pictured) and Jenny Kee’s over-the-top headpieces and one-of-a-kind gowns. Naturally, there was a commercial focus, too. Retailers are sure to scoop up the on-trend denim-on-denim looks seen at Ksubi and Zimmermann’s perfectly pretty, floral frocks. It seems things are looking up down under.
CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW to check out our Sydney fashion week highlights.
After planting her first stateside shop in L.A. last year, Australia-based designer Nicky Zimmermann decided the time is right to spread her roots to the other coast. “We’ve been looking for a space in New York since we had our [temporary] summer store on Greene Street the summer before last,” the designer, who is in town this week to debut her new shop, tells Style.com. “It’s taken us that long to find what we wanted.” After searching far and wide, she found a more permanent home for her ready-to-wear label, Zimmermann, in downtown New York. “The store on Mercer Street just feels like the right space for Zimmermann—it’s quite intimate but has these great high ceilings that gives the store some presence. I love it.”
The airy, 1,300-square-foot store, with its crisp white walls, maintains the same casual vibe that has come to be the brand’s signature. “We wanted the New York store to feel fresh and sexy, in a casual Australia sort of way. With all our stores we try to give them a common feeling of optimism while still allowing each space to have its own unique personality,” says Zimmermann.
The store is home to Zimmermann’s collection of ready-to-wear and swim items (like the best-selling Rebellion lace dress from Spring and the Devoted triangle-bra bikini), as well as a number of rash guards and bikinis (launching for summer) exclusive to the designer’s two U.S. shops. “We have these great rash guards that we have been working on recently and we’ve introduced some new bold color injections that will look great with summer skin later in the season,” she says. (Translation: New Yorkers might need a little time to catch up to that year-round Aussie tan.) Also coming soon: Zimmermann’s U.S. e-commerce shop, launching in late April, and a full children’s swimwear line. “We will introduce the complete collection of kid’s swim and resort, which everyone absolutely loves in Australia, and we think it will be really well received here,” she reports. She also hinted at another California location, or potentially Miami, as the site for the next Zimmermann retail outlet.
Zimmermann, 87 Mercer St., NYC.
It may be edging into winter in Australia, but with Memorial Day just around the corner in the U.S., Nicky Zimmermann figured the time was right to open up shop in Los Angeles. “We are always trying to get that feeling of the memory of an idyllic summer’s day, and how that made you feel. Summer is very much our season,” the designer of the eponymous swimwear collection told Style.com from her home base in Sydney’s Tamarama, right off of Bondi Beach. She may be far from California, but the West Coast, she said, always makes her feel right at home. “Every time I’m in L.A., I’m very comfortable there. It’ s very much like Sydney. The line is different from what’s already available there, but it definitely still fits in,” she said of the airy Robertson Boulevard boutique.
The new store (the first stateside) features a mix of Zimmermann’s signature swimwear, accompanying resort-wear, and ready-to-wear collections. “So many people start just doing swimsuits,” Zimmerman said, referring to the competitive and seasonal marketplace. “But we started as a ready-to-wear company, and the swim has always come from our ready-to-wear and what we do. That gives it something different.” That design ethos has informed swimwear with a certain focus on fashion—more than just skin-baring sex appeal. “We definitely touch on a very fashion end of swim, and [our customers] know to come to us for that.” Though the bikini may always be their best seller, a new focus may be taking hold. “In Australia, we sell one-pieces really well. It’s something we’ve focused on in the last few seasons. They’re very corset-looking, very sexy, with lace-enriched detailing. We definitely have a market for that.” The swimwear is balanced with the line’s ode to day dressing. The new collection, called Halcyon Days, was just shown at Australia’s Rosemont fashion week in Sydney (left, models preparing backstage for the runway). The new offerings feature textured natural fibers, light linens, and silk slub materials that are ideal for day with a light, summery feeling. “I design for the girl that’s right outside my front door in Tamarama and on Bondi. She’s not only beautiful, but she’s really stylish and cool. That’s the girl that I think about when I’m designing and choosing the prints and thinking about colors. And it’s now the same girl I see when I come to L.A.”
Zimmermann is open now at 110 S. Robertson Blvd., L.A., (310) 285-9680, www.zimmermannwear.com.
At dusk in Sydney’s Botanic Gardens, huge white cockatoos are still screeching around as the bats begin to stir, and the sky is momentarily filled with two winged species as different as day and night. It’s an amazing sight, perhaps not as charming as the lorikeets, the small parrots that settle to eat out of a visitor’s hand on the terrace of Heidi (Sass & Bide) Middleton’s house in Palm Beach just north of the city, but a reminder nevertheless that nature never stops putting on a show in Sydney. How can fashion compete, especially when it seems to flourish best in urban environments like Milan or Paris, where the spectacle comes courtesy of human beings?
Last week, the Australian fashion industry attempted to mount a persuasive alternative to nature’s charms, but when the most convincing designers seemed to be those who embraced and celebrated their environment, it was clear that you just can’t beat sun, sea, and sand. (All three were in full effect as Australia’s collections for next spring/summer were shown while this spring/summer dragged itself out in extravagant Indian style.) Seventh Wonderland (pictured, above left) and Zimmermann specialize in swimwear and, like designers in similarly blessed Rio, they take the bikini farther than you could imagine. Nicky Zimmermann in particular struck a sophisticated balance between form and function: Her retro references evoked haute Hollywood, but her prints were a contemporary blend of Spirographs and silvery black and white florals (above, right). And the cover-ups that accompanied the swimsuits (i.e., extended the brand) were sleekly glamorous in a way that seemed entirely natural for Sydney flesh honed, toned, and tanned by endless summers.
It’s a body-conscious aesthetic that has been successfully exported by Sass & Bide’s Middleton and Sarah-Jane Clarke, Kit Willow-Podgornik (whose new scuba dress with Lycra ruffles will spring from swimming pool to cocktail party missing nary a beat), and Josh Goot. Such is their international profile that these designers choose to spend their promotional dollars abroad. A shame, because the hometown program could have done with their gloss and focus. Although Goot, coming off his strongest collection yet, did concede, “Instead of trying to capture what’s over there, we should capture what’s over here, because what we have here is unique.”
Granted, the Sydney flora and fauna have a very particular quality, but Australian fashion week proved a point that is anything but unique. The concept of the fashion week has become a prime component in the cultural identity of cities all over the world (not just cities—Transylvania just rolled one out), and they all seem to feature the same cast of characters: the Local Hero, the Showman, the Avant-Gardist, the Next Big Thing, the Arty Duo, the Budding Supermodel, and so on. Sydney’s supe-in-the-making was 19-year-old aboriginal Samantha Harris. Its Showman was Alex Perry (1,000-foot catwalk, dressy glitz, sleb front row). The Avant-Gardist was Ben Pollitt, whose nom de mode is the more appropriately Teutonic Friedrich Gray (though it’s Rick Owens who deserves the royalties). Anna Plunkett and Luke Sales were the Arty Duo, cross-pollinating with Local Hero with their label Romance Was Born (pictured, below left). Hence, a late-night slot (made later by a 90-minute delay), a worshipful audience, and a collection that joyously erred on the side of delirious excess. (Dinosaurs mating with the Medicis under the volcano? The scenario could have been torn from Galliano’s back pages.) Or perhaps the Local Heroes were the Ksubi boys, George Gorrow and Dan Single, whose denim label hit the comeback trail after some business setbacks with a spectacle that was all crowd-pleasing style and precious little substance.
Next Big Thing? Undoubtedly Dion Lee (below right), 24 years old and already showing the kind of promise that slots him in alongside young Turk peers like Marios Schwab and Proenza Schouler. His clothes were precise and polished, his prints were extraordinary (ultraviolet Rorschach blots looking like eerie florals). And Lee’s show was perfectly edited and paced, qualities that were sorely lacking elsewhere in the week. It was also staged in the Sydney Opera House, a building that is still so breathtaking after nearly 40 years that it’s a reminder of what human beings can achieve even when the natural world on their doorstep conspires to distract them at every turn. And there’s surely some inspiration there for young hopefuls like Dion Lee.