Rasmus Wingårdh, Designer
You recently started a new label, Rasmus Wingårdh Atelier de Conception; can you tell us a little about it?
Sure! My business partner and I decided a while ago to set up my own signature collection in order to create a forum for my creativity. It felt very natural to do it under my own name, even though I have been a bit hesitant about turning myself into a brand name. At this stage, it’s very simple: There is a core line, and then a couple of collaborations, and that is pretty much how the structure of the brand will be for now. The core line is rooted in jersey fabrics that have been meticulously developed and chosen, both for menswear and womenswear. The designs are simple and minimalistic but with a lot of focus on fit and just the right details. We also carry a series of tailor-made suits for menswear developed together with Bauer tailoring in Stockholm.
You have been on the Swedish fashion scene for a long while; what makes your new venture special?
Well, I have been working with and for other companies and labels, and I guess this is the first time I’m not forced to fit together with someone else’s values and ideals. This is Rasmus in his truest form, good or bad. I also think that it is a forerunner to something that is not about mass consumerism, but rather for a select few who share my values and love for timeless and wonderful products. The design is never defined by price, but actually the other way around, which may sound like a natural thing but is quite rare on the Scandinavian fashion scene. For me, personally, it also acts very much like an anchor for when I do freelance work for other labels. It is a way for my aesthetic to shine by itself, so I don’t lose track of who I am. This makes me very vulnerable, since it’s such a personal project, but I think it’s the truest and only way to do something good.
What have you learned along the road that you will take with you?
Experience in general, I would say. I mean, I’ve been working in this business for close to fifteen years, which is like dog years in the fashion industry. I think that my sense for quality and good workmanship is something I am bringing with me.
The funny thing is, this brand has helped me take steps into areas that, up until now, I really hadn’t gone before, like womenswear and even furniture design, so on some levels I’m a complete noob, which also makes it very fun.
Who is the ideal customer for Rasmus Wingårdh Atelier de Conception?
I’d like to think it’s anyone, but that is perhaps a bit naive? Someone with a sophisticated sense of taste, perhaps? Someone who is not defined by age, which I find ridiculous, when you think about how obsessed we are in this industry with youth and youth culture. The thing is, though, it is for them as well; it’s just not centered around youth. I would say that it’s for someone who has style, someone who cares, someone with good taste.
How would you describe the aesthetic, the spirit, and the ideology of the brand?
I always strive to create something with a sense of balance. Balance between scruffy and elegant, or relaxed and sensual. It has to be sexy, but in a sophisticated way. It also has to be comfortable. If I, in two years’ time, want to make macro-design instead of micro-design, then so be it.
What is the next step for the line?
We showed our first core collection during fashion week in Stockholm. The next step is to show our collaboration with Bauer tailoring in Stockholm, where we have developed a series of suits and coats that will be available at Bauer. All these wonderful designs are available tailor-made right now, measured and fit just for you, and they will only be available for a specific period of time. In October-November we will unveil yet another collaboration project that a furniture builder and I have developed. This project is centered around a series of tables that we have designed.
Photos: Karl-Johan Bogefors