1La Face Cachée de la Pomme’s Neige Apple Ice Wine (2011, Québec) shut down the meal.

Four chefs and five sommeliers from Paris and Oakland recently put together a dinner at Penrose for the latest installation of the Paris Popup.

See if you can follow this connect-the-dots of Paris-Oakland must-know culinary destinations: Penrose is the newest restaurant from Charlie Hallowell, a Chez Panisse alum who also owns Boot and Shoe Service and Pizzaiolo, all of which are in Oakland. One languid young chef named Austin Holey (central casting for a Hedi Slimane production) worked for Charlie in Oakland before moving to Paris, where he is now sous-chef at Bones, a new restaurant from chef James Edward Henry, of Au Passage.

3The original Oakland-Paris chef, Austin Holey of Bones.

Holey met couple Laura Vidal and Harry Cummins, both formerly of Frenchie, who last year started their collaborative venture, the Paris Popup (which does pop-up restaurants around the world). In talking to Holey about the idea of a pop-up in San Francisco, Holey suggested his former boss, Charlie, as a collaborator. Then his current boss—Henry, of Bones—wanted in, too.

2Caviar-laden translucent delicacies.

Laura, a French sommelier, wanted to take advantage of California’s rich terroir of not only wines but also sommeliers for the pairings. On her wish list were Rajat Parr, Eric Railsback, Anthony Lynch, and Evan Lewandowski.

The results were tantalizing.

Don’t miss the next Paris Popup March 9, at Kiln, in Kyoto.

Photos: Courtesy of Lauren Goodman; Aya Yamamoto/


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Lauren Goodman

Lauren Goodman is a freelance fashion editor and consultant living in San Francisco. She has held the post of fashion director at titles such as Domino magazine and The Wall ...