The most interesting thing going on in Argentina right now is the new wave of designers that has hit our capital. They are loud, serious, and very different from one another. In this short list of creative entrepreneurs, the brand Dubié is stepping strong, with its third season being its best yet.
Before launching her brand in Buenos Aires, Agustina Dubié spent some time in London, working for Nicholas Kirkwood and Roksanda Ilincic. Experience working abroad is definitely something that marks the path of the designers we have in Argentina, who bring back a design language that can translate to something that can be appreciated around the world. That is something exciting about the market that is coming up here, where I am so happy to be living at this point in time. Those designers who succeed above others, who have something more, are ultimately those who design from their reality, rather than looking over their shoulder to see what’s cool in the magazines and what’s going on abroad.
Agustina and her partner in love and work, Javier Martinez Bo, met while working for a mass-market brand from Buenos Aires. They both wanted to express something different, and from that came Dubié, a beautiful store in the Palermo Zoo area, where you can find, as she puts it, “easy, elegant, and quality clothes.”
For Fall ’14, Dubié was interested in investigating sweat suits, being that they are viewed as completely unfashionable. She managed to transform them in order to enhance a woman’s curves, maintaining comfort and chicness. Agustina threw in some minimalism from fifties couture, and the result is a collection to be seen, worn, and enjoyed. It has great volume, with traditional cotton jersey being replaced by superfine wool.
This collection really marked the brand’s evolution. From the first season, I already have my Dubié trenchcoat, my Dubié pants, and my Dubié overalls, all of which I couldn’t live without. And then came Agustina’s collection inspired by ripped jeans, which she wears constantly, her eternal uniform. Agustina has been giving a new voice to her clients, and they love her for it.
I find something very Argentine in the clothes as well, something similar to the brutality and the understated drama of Clorindo Testa’s work, as well as Buenos Aires as a whole: the curves of the concrete, the finesse of its chaos—loud in its uniqueness, tough, hard, difficult to love, and impossible to leave behind. You can picture Agustina dancing ballet in the FADU (University of Buenos Aires School of Architecture, Urbanism, and Design), finding the beauty in the truth that is complete lack of naivety, that keeps you grounded, keeps you in today. This perspective of the world is what makes a good designer; they have to know, and be able to see, what surrounds them in order to make things that matter.
Her message is elegant, minimalistic, sporty, and punk at the same time. To me, this is what a current woman is about.
Dubié, Republica de la India 3139, Palermo Zoo, Buenos Aires.
For more information, visit www.dubie.com.
Photos: Fausto Elizalde; Luciana Val & Franco Musso