I was recently invited by the Taiwanese fisheries to see the fish markets across Taiwan and compare the quality to that of Japan’s and China’s. The first stop was Yilan. After spending years going to Tsukiji, in Tokyo, I was blown away by the quality, the size, and the fact that I had never heard of this market. The tuna were bigger, all line-caught, cut faster, and all by hand. They are leaner than what is currently popular, but they have a much more developed flavor, more akin to Boston tuna, which, sadly, most Americans will never taste, as 99 percent of it is exported out of the U.S.
Photos: Courtesy of Max Levy