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Dept. of culture

tribal wear-fare

February 26, 2008  2:28 pm

Exact1

Goths, punks, mods, hipsters, and other species of subculture insiders wear recognizable uniforms of nonconformity. But what about those of us whose personal style—be it a penchant for dreadlocks, leather jackets and jeans, or hooded anoraks—can’t be summed up by such ready-made stamps? Dutch artists Ellie Uyttenbroek and Ari Versluis have been playing anthropologist by gathering and classifying subculture specimens for their extended series “Exactitudes.” A contraction of “exact” and “attitude,” “Exactitudes” presents people with shared style statements posed against the same neutral backdrop in similar stances, so that the threads tying their commonality together are clearly revealed. After starting the project in 1994, Uyttenbroek and Versluis have shot “Exactitudes” in Beijing, Rio de Janeiro, New York, and Bordeaux. Now they have taken their cameras and their method to London, which Versluis describes as “the inventor of youth style in a tribal way, more than any other world city.” In an effort to document what they think of as the “holy bible of contemporary tribal fashion,” the team has created “Tribalising Fashion: The Art of Exactitudes at Selfridges.” Presented in the store’s Ultralounge gallery in collaboration with the Photographers’ Gallery, the show offers viewers an anthropological perspective on the way we dress today.

—Ana Finel Honigman

Photo: Yupster Girls, New York, 2006. Part of the Exactitudes series. © Ari Versluis &Ellie Uyttenbroek

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