NEW YORK, February 7, 2008 - "It's Minnie Mouse and Helmut Newton. A little sexy, a little sweet," said hairstylist Odile Gilbert backstage at Zac Posen, giving Posen's mom, Susan, the model treatment by pulling her hair into a high, sleek twist like the ones models Karen Elson and Irina Lazareanu wore.

The finished look on the runway was complete with two black cashmere pom-pons (left) pinned like ears on either side of the otherwise minimalist bun - the Minnie part - and a strong, blood-red lip/sophisticated smoky eye combination - the Helmut part. "The girls look 'insouciant'," said Susan Posen. "They're a bit sassy."

NEW YORK, Thursday, February 7, 2008 - Imagine Little Edie Beale from Grey Gardens—messy, tousled up-do and all with a shock of fluorescent eye shadow—and you have the look on New York's runways this season.

There were deconstructed chignons and twists at Rodarte (left) and Narciso Rodriguez; at Michael Kors (right), Orlando Pita added a touch of Amy Winehouse, finishing a teased beehive with a sleek ponytail or twisted chignon at the neck for a "modern version of a Hitchcock blonde." Think Tippi Hedren in The Birds.

Fearless, frequently 80s day-glo color - dusted opaquely over the lids - has been the name of the game at Benjamin Cho (pink, blue, and yellow). Behnaz Sarafpour (yellow, pink, and purple), and Derek Lam (yellow-green).