ALL POSTS TAGGED "mark-holgate"
browse more tagsDark Dramatic Glamour: What Selling at Forty Five Ten in Dallas, Texas?
When it comes to fashion, the Internet has clearly taught us this: Women everywhere, but everywhere, love clothes, and they want to look good in them. And because we’re aware that it’s all too easy to be myopically challenged and look no farther than the streets—and stores—of New York, we’re going to check up on [...]
Friday November 06, 2009 5:11PM
Meet Gianvito Rossi. He’s Making the Shoes You’ll Want Come Spring
Hard to believe, I know, but the most radical thing that can be done to a shoe right now is . . . absolutely nothing. No zippers snaking everywhere. No buckles unless they are functional. And definitely no junked-up jeweling that looks like someone has gone berserk with a Bedazzler. That’s certainly what Gianvito Rossi, [...]
Thursday November 05, 2009 5:11PM
London’s Rising Stars: Nicholas King
Nicholas King just got back from a trip to Asia to find some new materials for his jewelry. While he makes everything in Britain—in east London, to be precise, not far from his studio—he’s always on the look out for some different thing he can use. Up till now, he has been working with studs, [...]
Monday November 02, 2009 4:11PM
Model Wall: Tao Okamoto
Right now, there is a ranking out there on the Internet for the models who walked the most spring 2010 shows, and Tao Okamoto, who graced 58 runways, makes the top five. And what’s Okamoto’s secret to coping with that punishing schedule? A bath every night, she says, regardless of the time her day finishes, [...]
Thursday October 29, 2009 9:10AM
Model Wall: Alla Kostromichova
Think doing 55 shows in one season is tough? Huh, that’s nothing. Try—as Alla Kostromichova did—heading to university aged 16 to study medical optronic engineering. Five years later, this Ukrainian, who hails from Sebastapol, has her degree, even if she did have to put her modeling career on the back burner. So we can be [...]
Thursday October 22, 2009 3:10PM
Something Old, Something New: How to Dress for Spring 2010 the J.Crew Way
When plenty of women are diving into that little boutique at home called Their Own Closet, how does fashion convince them it might be time to go buy something exciting and new? Well, here are the options: Ignore that idea of home shopping and just keep producing more and more stuff. Acknowledge that it’s happening, [...]
Thursday October 22, 2009 1:10PM
Model Wall: Aminata Niaria
She has only been living in New York for one week, but already Aminata Niaria feels at home, sorting out her midtown apartment, scouring the neighborhood for the best Japanese restaurants, still experiencing the thrill of hailing a yellow cab. She moved here from Paris, where she moved when she was eight, having lived in [...]
Wednesday October 21, 2009 5:10PM
In Living Kolor: A Look At The New (To Us, At Least) Japanese Label
“I’m sorry, but it’s very difficult to explain, and I always say I won’t do it,” says Junichi Abe, the designer behind the Tokyo-based Kolor. “I think that what people feel when they see and wear the clothes is everything.” If Abe doesn’t want to talk about what inspired his spring 2010 collection, fair enough. [...]
Tuesday October 20, 2009 2:10PM
Model Wall: Antonella Graef
Unless you’ve been avidly following the two most recent Givenchy shows—the haute couture in July, and the spring 2010 collection shown a couple of weeks ago—you won’t have seen Antonella Graef yet; Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci claimed an exclusive on her. All that may change next year, however, when Graef will be able to start doing [...]
Monday October 19, 2009 3:10PM
Flats Continue Their Relentless Rise with the Cole, Rood & Haan Collection
All those incredibly vertiginous shoes you’ve been teetering about in, willing yourself to be able to take another step, praying you don’t go down to the ground quicker than you can say ankle fracture? Please. Take them off. The flat, sensible shoe is here to the rescue—an update on the classic men’s wingtip, and a [...]
Friday October 16, 2009 4:10PM
Donatella Versace Launches a Tote Bag to Support Children’s Charities
Oh, surely not. Just this week, I caught sight of my first glimpse of tinsel, decorating the produce aisle in my local supermarket. (Thanks for the festive heads-up, Key Foods, Park Slope.) So if others are thinking about the holidays two months and more away, then maybe it’s time to give them some thought. And [...]
Friday October 16, 2009 1:10PM
The Tale of Two McQueens: Watching the Spring 2010 Show Online and in Real Life
With so many designers—Burberry Prorsum, Dolce & Gabbana, RM by Roland Mouret, Louis Vuitton—broadcasting their shows over the Internet this season, and the fashion industry wondering if the end is nigh for the way things have been done in the past, we decided to compare and contrast the experience of watching a show live and [...]
Thursday October 08, 2009 8:10PM
Paris Spring 2010: The Definitive Look at Hermès
When Jean Paul Gaultier goes for a theme, he goes all out. So when he thinks tennis, like he did for Hermès, he goes straight to the sport’s traditional look and not the one that Serena Williams and the like are serving in new ways, borrowing from other sports and mainstream fashion. There were crisp [...]
Thursday October 08, 2009 11:10AM
Paris Spring 2010: The Definitive Look at Miu Miu
She might not have been putting out fire with gasoline but Miuccia Prada, like her David Bowie sound track, was thinking about cat people. Well, cats really, which like dogs and swallows were a recurrent print motif turning up on very-seventies silk blouses, small cropped jackets that emphasized the breasts, and skinny pants worn with [...]
Thursday October 08, 2009 11:10AM
Paris Spring 2010: The Definitive Look at Louis Vuitton
Afros plus bows plus exuberantly layered utility jackets, teeny pleated skirts, and print cycling shorts, plus satchels strung with fur tails and leather tassels, plus crazy low-heeled clogs equals Japanese street cult—deluxe Louis Vuitton style, that is. Marc Jacobs went upbeat and optimistic, with the collection underscoring one of the key directions of Paris: People, [...]
Thursday October 08, 2009 11:10AM
Paris Spring 2010: The Definitive Look at Roland Mouret
The litmus testis this: Just how good do a designer’s acolytes look at the show wearing his or her clothes? It’s all very well seeing them on the runway worn by willowy seventeen-year-old Russians, but what about, you know, real life? A positive result then for Roland Mouret, whose ladies looked immaculately and effortlessly chic [...]
Thursday October 08, 2009 10:10AM
Paris Spring 2010: The Definitive Look at Chanel
You’ve got to love Chanel, whose show opened with models striding out of Marie Antoinette’s hameau de la reine and ended with a regal romp in the hay with Freja, Lara, and a hapless male suitor. And the clothes? Pastoral-chic tweed suits with silver quilted bags that hung from raw natural leather straps or straw [...]
Tuesday October 06, 2009 3:10PM
Paris Spring 2010: The Definitive Look at Stella McCartney
Now, here is the thing with all the dusky pinks and ruffles and printed chiffons that we’ve seen in Paris: What starts out so sweet can, after a week, make you feel like you’ve eaten your way through a box of Ladurée macaroons, with the enormous sugar high that ensues—and the equally huge crash that [...]
Monday October 05, 2009 3:10PM
Paris Spring 2010: The Definitive Look at Undercover
Whether for personal preference, or economic expediency, Undercover’s June Takahashi has chosen not to show in Paris this past couple of seasons. It’s a pity, because he always used to do some of the most intelligent and intriguing presentations in town.
That said, there is something pretty special about having Takahashi walk you through the collection, [...]
Saturday October 03, 2009 3:10PM
Because It’s Worth It: Erdem
On a visit today to designer Erdem Moralioglu’s studio in Shoreditch, a hipster district in east London, the conversation turned round to money. Specifically, how much some of his label Erdem’s clothes are going to cost, especially given his level of workmanship.
As it turned out, he’d already thought about it, a lot. The first look [...]
Friday September 25, 2009 4:09PM
Because It’s Worth It: Jonathan Saunders
When the spring 2010 season finally hits stores in a few months time, you might detect a downward shift in the cost of the clothes. Not everything and not every label, it is true, but more and more designers are thinking long and hard on how to answer this question: How do I create something [...]
Friday September 25, 2009 12:09PM
Milan Begins: Sneak Preview of Giorgio Armani
A sneak peek of the collection Mr. Armani showed today, the opening of Milan. We’ll have a few more previews—and favorite looks from Hamish Bowles and Sally Singer— over the next few days….
Thursday September 24, 2009 4:09PM
London Spring 2010: The Essential Aquascutum
Whenever you or I see a trenchcoat, we think of a way to keep dry. When Aquascutum designer Michael Herz sees one, well, he’s looking at a coat that he can lavish an endless amount of detail on—like this one, with its layers of ruffles on the collar, and apron strings to wrap and tie.
Herz [...]
Tuesday September 22, 2009 9:09PM
London Spring 2010: The Essential Christopher Kane
So that’s it settled then. Pretty is the new sexy; elegant the new tough. Christopher Kane says so, and as far as I’m concerned, that is good enough for me. (And from the way Donatella Versace was applauding from the front row, she seconds that.)
This was a gorgeous collection, and one that for the first [...]
Tuesday September 22, 2009 8:09AM
London Spring 2010: The Essential Meadham Kirchhoff
Big shoulders, tiny skirts, and everything cut so tight that there is barely room to breathe? That was yesterday’s silhouette in London, in more ways than one. Clearly Meadham Kirchhoff are feeling the same way, because they’re thinking longer, looser, and most crucially, darkly romantic, what with their patchworked sinuous bias cut dresses patched together [...]
Monday September 21, 2009 10:09PM
London Spring 2010: The Essential Matthew Williamson
Back to show on home turf to help celebrate the 25th anniversary of London Fashion Week after several seasons in New York, Matthew Williamson did the unexpected. Rather than play to his bohemian, pile-it-all- on Primrose Hill era (see Miller, Sienna, for further reference) he did that most uncharacteristic of things. He went kind of…. [...]
Monday September 21, 2009 7:09AM
London Spring 2010: The Essential Mary Katrantzou
She has been dazzled by monumental jewels. She has inhaled deeply from perfume flacons. And now Mary Katrantzou, the young Greek designer who is known for her rich graphic prints with their knowing wink to the icons of luxury, has been holding up Venetian glass to the light. This colorful glass translated into looks like [...]
Monday September 21, 2009 7:09AM
New York Spring 2010: Mark Holgate’s Favorite Three As Four Look
Three as Four love their conceptual hi-jinks. This show, each model got to snip, snip, snip away at the dress of a girl who stood in the middle of the runway clutching two pairs of scissors the entire time, until the dress completely unraveled; so not so much running with scissors as modeling with scissors. Yet the floor [...]
Friday September 18, 2009 8:09PM
An Editor’s Address Book: Sarah Mower on London
The circuit of London, Milan and Paris might mean a never-ending schedule of show, presentation, show, show, presentation, show, collapse, bed, day in, day out, but an editor cannot live by the new season’s directions alone. We asked some of Vogue’s editors to reveal the contents of their address books; the delights and distractions that [...]
Friday September 18, 2009 8:09PM
Inside An Editor’s Address Book: Mark Holgate’s Guide to London
Favorite restaurants. . . . Everyone but everyone will tell you have to go to The Wolesley, especially for breakfast. And they’re right, you should, but I actually prefer sister restaurant St. Alban. The menu skips from Spain to Italy, with the occasional detour to Greece, France, etc., etc. Try the wood-baked sardines with gremolata, [...]
Friday September 18, 2009 3:09PM
Sneak Peek: The Spring 2010 Collection by Tabitha Simmons
On Wednesday, editors and Bergdorf Goodman customers crowded into the Fifth Avenue store’s shoe department for a meet and greet with Tabitha Simmons (far left with Marchesa’s Georgina Chapman), who was hosting a party to celebrate the arrival of her first collection. Now, this English fashion editor is one of our own here at Vogue, [...]
Friday September 18, 2009 3:09PM
Editors Scale Back! The Tale of the Incredible Shrinking Purse
Not so long ago, getting to your seat at a show was treacherous. You had to navigate your way along the row past gargantuan bags loaded with studs, fringe, drawstring, zippers, and so much hardware that it could be melted down to make enough flatware for dinner for four. Well, all that’s changed, and all [...]
Wednesday September 16, 2009 3:09PM
New York Spring 2010: Mark Holgate’s Favorite Altuzarra Look
New York—Altuzarra, Look #1
Woman cannot live by dresses alone, even if the spring collections so far have been awash with them. Well, those and the little short playsuits that also been much in evidence. So, you know, a jacket or two would be good; some tailoring to give the closet a little chic structure. Which [...]
Sunday September 13, 2009 11:09AM
New York Spring 2010 Preview: Thakoon, Jason Wu, Marchesa, L’Wren Scott, Julian Louie and Ruffian
More inspirational images—and a couple of sneak peeks at looks—from today’s designers Thakoon, Jason Wu, Marchesa, L’Wren Scott, Julian Louie and Ruffian. Both Thakoon and Jason Wu have been looking to the artist Tara Donovan. “I’m really inspired by the organic nature of Tara Donovan’s “Bluffs” which is made entirely out of buttons,” says Thakoon, [...]
Thursday September 10, 2009 5:09PM
New York Spring 2010: Mark Holgate’s Favorite BCBG Max Azria Look
Max Azria showed 31 looks this morning, and every single one of ’em was a dress of some sort (short, superlong, sculpted—you name it). I guess we can surmise from these that one-stop dressing is very much on the designer’s mind for next spring. So, too, is the soft slouchy tee, which was incorporated into [...]
Thursday September 10, 2009 1:09PM
Tales from the Sales Floor: What’s Selling at Saks Fifth Avenue
Last Friday, Emily Burnett visited the newly revamped third floor of Saks Fifth Avenue in Manhattan. Burnett, who works for Secor Consulting Group in Toronto, was looking for a winter coat. The weather at home had turned nippy, and, besides, she said, “the best of the new season always sells really fast in New York. [...]
Wednesday September 09, 2009 5:09PM
Exclusive to Vogue.Com: You Ask Designers the Questions—And They’ll Answer
Here at Vogue we’re pretty used to asking designers pretty much every question under the sun—but we bet that there are a few that even we haven’t though of. Which is where you come in. Vogue.com is launching a new feature where you can ask designers a question you’ve always wanted to have them answer. [...]
Friday August 14, 2009 12:08PM
Labor of Love: A sneak peek at Reed Krakoff’s own label, coming next year
Last week, Vogue paid a trip to a far-flung stretch of West Thirty-fourth Street to look at Reed Krakoff’s first collection for the new label that will bear his name. It was a hotly anticipated debut, what with Krakoff’s barnstorming global success as President, Executive Creative Director of Coach, a role he will continue to [...]
Tuesday August 11, 2009 3:08PM
The Gone but Never Forgotten Jil Sander Returns with Her First Uniqlo Collection
While Raf Simons is doing a fantastic job designing the Jil Sander label, it’s hard to not to feel a pang for the woman who established it in the first place. (That’s one of her androgynous, athletic and absolutely chic pantsuits from Vogue January 1998, above left.) Well, rejoice! She’s back. Chances are you know [...]
Monday August 10, 2009 2:08PM
Need It Now: David Mellor Chinese Green Cutlery
Right now, nothing looks more delicious to the eye than David Mellor’s recently reissued Chinese Green Cutlery, which the iconic English designer created back in the Seventies. I have absolutely no idea what is Chinese about it, although being British, I dimly remember from my childhood that attempting Cantonese cooking at home was big that [...]
Wednesday August 05, 2009 1:08PM
CFDA/Swarovski Menswear Winner Tim Hamilton Now Has Designs On Dressing You
The inevitable question whenever a menswear designer turns his attentions to dressing women: Will he simply replicate what he already does with, if you’ll excuse the turn of phrase, a little gender reassignment? No, is the emphatic answer from New York–based Tim Hamilton, this year’s winner of the CFDA/Swarovski Award for Menswear, whose first women’s [...]
Monday August 03, 2009 5:08PM
A New York Minute with the Very Busy, Multitasking Hussein Chalayan
Before I go any further, do you think can we all agree on something? Do you think we can we all stop calling Hussein Chalayan “avant-garde”? It’s a tag that’s used as freely—and lazily—as “intellectual” Rei Kawakubo and “sexy” Tom Ford. Certainly Chalayan himself is (with good humor) kind of tired of hearing that label [...]
Thursday July 30, 2009 5:07PM
We’re Outta Here! Some of Vogue’s Favorite Models Reveal Their Vacation Destinations
Even though some have taken their summer break early—Isabeli Fontana went to Fortaleza, Brazil, and then Negril, Jamaica; Jourdan Dunn also went to Jamaica, to Montego Bay; and Caroline Trentini is currently visiting her family in southern Brazil, where summer actually means mild winter—others are still busy working on their packing. Coco Rocha (above, in Vogue [...]
Wednesday July 29, 2009 5:07PM
Resort Report 2010: The Row
Surely it is a sign of how far Ashley and Mary Kate Olsen’s label has come that we can refer to something as “very The Row”. Leather leggings? Very The Row. A shrunken yet masculine blazer with pushed up sleeves—the boyfriend jacket, if your boyfriend happened to be 5’ 3. Yes, that too is very [...]
Thursday July 02, 2009 11:07AM
Why Andrew Logan’s Big, Bold Jewelry is Still Brilliant After All These Years
Andrew Logan would have loved to chat about his searingly hued sculptural jewelry but didn’t have an awful lot of time. The Welsh-born artist/jeweler/designer/cultural provocateur was busy in his London studio, which lies close to the Thames, putting the finishing touches to his latest Alternative Miss World pageant. It has been a major draw for [...]
Friday June 26, 2009 2:06PM
Resort Report 2010: Acne
Alber Elbaz may have showed Lanvin’s latest collaboration with Acne as part of his resort collection last week, but that doesn’t mean the Swedish label hasn’t also been busy thinking about clothes that will bridge the gap between this coming fall and next spring. Acne supremo Jonny Johansson has come up with a whole narrative [...]
Monday June 22, 2009 4:06PM
Resort Report 2010: Vera Wang
Every time Vera Wang looked at her daughters recently, she noticed they were in long tees layered over short shorts; tees so long, in fact, they covered up whatever they were worn with. While it drove her a little crazy—if you’re a parent, you’ll understand this point of generational fashion clash between a mom and [...]
Thursday June 18, 2009 3:06PM
Resort Report 2010: Louis Vuitton
You may not be the girl who inspired this Louis Vuitton resort collection. You may not even know someone like her. But, by golly, chances are you’d love to be her. The Parisian coquette who inspired the house’s Christian Lacroix–like fall has packed up her pouf skirts and bunny ears and taken to the high [...]
Thursday June 18, 2009 3:06PM
Resort Report 2010: Marchesa
How is Marchesa, a name synonymous with big-night dressing, coping with our current economic situation? Well, it is certainly not advocating sitting at home in sackcloth and ashes, that’s for sure—not if the label’s resort collection is anything to go by. Designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig went all out for a look that is, [...]
Wednesday June 17, 2009 4:06PM
Resort Report 2010: Givenchy
These last few weeks we’ve seen a few resort collections where designers have chosen to also showcase other ideas they have been busy working on, like Thakoon Panchigul presenting his second Addition collection, or Alber Elbaz previewing Lanvin’s latest collaboration with Acne. Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci did it too, but talk about putting yourself under pressure! [...]
Tuesday June 16, 2009 3:06PM
Resort Report 2010: Dior
When John Galliano was working on Dior resort, he had a very specific inspiration in mind: the fabulous look (and equally fabulous life) of Mitzah Bricard, who was muse to Monsieur Christian Dior, way back in the day. In fact, Galliano’s inspiration gets even more specific. Bricard had a birthmark on her wrist, and she [...]
Tuesday June 16, 2009 3:06PM
The Envelope Please: The Winners of the 2009 CFDA Awards
It’s 9:26 p.m. and the last winner of the evening has just been announced, marking the end of the 2009 CFDA awards, which were held tonight at Lincoln Center, the new home of the New York shows, starting next year. It’s been quite a year for American fashion, what with the perilous, unnerving state of [...]
Monday June 15, 2009 9:06PM
Resort Report 2010: Gucci
It is a testament to the exacting nature of Frida Giannini’s vision of Gucci—sexily boyish, sexily rock-’n’-roll, or just good old sexy, plain and simple—that she can make even a chic beige trench coat emblematic of it. That trench came with a blue shirt, a swishing silk scarf, and skinny striped boy pants, the model [...]
Monday June 15, 2009 1:06PM
Resort Report 2010: Balenciaga
So far we’ve seen plenty of great clothes this resort season, the kind of clothes that will stick around in a woman’s closet for quite a while, quietly making themselves at home. There were plenty of those at Balenciaga, too, but designer Nicolas Ghesquière is also one to push the envelope a little, be a [...]
Monday June 15, 2009 1:06PM
Resort Report 2010: Lanvin
At this morning’s Lanvin presentation, designer Alber Elbaz mentioned that the house’s new resort collection will include tees that start at $119 and cotton dresses at $450. Uh, rewind: $119? $450? Surely not. As it was so early, maybe something got lost in translation? But apparently not. However, don’t go thinking this is Lanvin lite: [...]
Monday June 15, 2009 1:06PM
Resort Report 2010: Proenza Schouler
Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are really busy. They’re nominated for their accessories at Monday night’s American Fashion Awards, and then the next day they’re off to Florence for Pitti W, where they’ve been invited to show their resort collection, which they’re going to do as a series of art installations. But before [...]
Saturday June 13, 2009 9:06AM
Resort Report 2010: Celine
After all the many months of waiting, and all the secrecy (no pictures allowed at the preview; just the official images, sent on a disc at the end of the day, by armed guard for all I know), Phoebe Philo finally unveiled her first collection for the house of Celine in a huge raw space [...]
Friday June 12, 2009 1:06PM
Resort Report 2010: Isaac Mizrahi
The Tale of Resort and the Dress, part 306. Yes, you guessed it: Isaac Mizrahi fully embraced what has become the VIP (Very Important Piece) of the resort collections. Of course Mizrahi is no stranger to the charms of the dress. Even when he gave up designing his eponymous label and took a turn hosting [...]
Tuesday June 09, 2009 5:06PM
Resort Report 2010: Jonathan Saunders
If for fall Jonathan Saunders went for a hard-edged vision of the eighties with a medieval twist—power dressing suitable for midtown office or monastery alike—then his resort collection couldn’t have been more different. Pretty much everything had the ease of a T-shirt, even a short-sleeved, floor-length chiffon evening dress with blocks of painterly color washes, [...]
Tuesday June 09, 2009 12:06PM
Open and Shut Case: Designers Are Really Selling Fall at Their Trunk Shows
A few weeks ago, Jason Wu took in $80,000 in orders for his fall 2009 collection at a trunk show at Saks Fifth Avenue in Philadelphia. This time last year, that figure would have seemed unremarkable, what with the resounding kerr-ching that was being heard right across the country as women shopped like never before. [...]
Tuesday June 09, 2009 11:06AM
Resort Report 2010: Jason Wu
Here’s the thing about watching Jason Wu’s resort collection, shown this afternoon at the Greenwich Hotel in Tribeca: While you’re sitting there, you can’t help trying to second-guess what will turn up on our First Lady. This time round, that required a little more thought, simply because Wu decided to take his collection in a [...]
Thursday June 04, 2009 5:06PM
Resort Report 2010: Thakoon
There was only one thing Thakoon Panichgul had on his mind when he was designing his resort collection, and it was this: texture. No matter what you looked at this morning, you felt like you just had to reach out and touch. It could have been the intricately pleated dresses in the shape of this [...]
Thursday June 04, 2009 5:06PM
Resort Report 2010: Alexander Wang
On June 16th, you’ll see the fruits of Alexander Wang’s collaboration with the Gap, which came about after he won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund last November. That got him thinking about the iconic look of casual America—khakis, chambray shirts, tees, sweatshirts, and baseball jackets—for resort, though Wang has put his own spin on them so, [...]
Thursday June 04, 2009 5:06PM
Resort Report 2010: Carolina Herrera
Three days into this run of resort shows/presentations/appointments, and it’s pretty clear that the Dress Is Having a Moment. Hardly earth-shattering news this, given that it seems to be the one piece that still has stores ringing up sales. Carolina Herrera is feeling for the dress too, but she’s not thinking easy, breezy, I just [...]
Thursday June 04, 2009 11:06AM
Resort Report 2010: Miu Miu
What do stylized Art Deco orchid prints, white leather bags with chunky jeweled chain straps, and the kind of lace-up boots that boxing champions wear to battle it out in the ring (though these were on high, spindly heels) have in common? They all seemed to be going through Miuccia Prada’s head when she was [...]
Thursday June 04, 2009 11:06AM
Resort Report 2010: Rag and Bone
So, starting to feel like you’re done with leggings, are you? That they’re over, kaput, finito? Well, here is something to make you rethink that position—Rag & Bone’s new skinny yet slouchy track pant. It pretty much lookd perfect with everything else the Rag & Bone boys, Marcus Wainwright and David Neville, have done for [...]
Wednesday June 03, 2009 7:06PM
Resort Report 2010: Diane von Furstenberg
Resort may give designers a chance to do a little experimentation with what they can do for spring, but it also allows them to stick with those three little letters: D, N, and A. Certainly, when Diane von Furstenberg opened her resort show (the first time she’d staged a fully fledged runway moment for this [...]
Wednesday June 03, 2009 7:06PM
New Vintage Store: Nikki Eve in Sag Harbor
“I feel I’ve done a new take on a vintage store,” Nikki Eve Aarons says of her Sag Harbor emporium Nikki Eve, which opened Memorial Day weekend. “So often you have to dig through so much. What I’ve done is really edit what’s here.” If you happen to be looking for a mint-condition late-seventies Yves [...]
Tuesday June 02, 2009 9:06AM
Vogue Shops Vienna
-Thursday, May 14th, 5:00 p.m.: Who says people don’t dress up for flights anymore? I am heading to Vienna to do a little shopping–and attend the Life Ball, Vienna’s over-the-top, nuttily glamorous annual AIDS benefit–and the two most glamorous characters waiting to board the official Life Ball plane are Ivana Trump and Amanda Lepore, hands down. Trump is [...]
Friday May 29, 2009 4:05PM
Save the Date for Fashion’s Night Out
Should you have been thinking about doing something on the night of September 10th, better think about canceling whatever it is you have planned. You’re invited to a party. Actually, everyone is on the guest list on what is going to be the fashion party to end all fashion parties. It’s called Fashion’s Night Out, [...]
Wednesday May 20, 2009 6:05PM
Forte_Forte: A Low Key Label from Italy is About to Make a Lot of Noise
When Giada Forte decides to check up on what’s happening with the latest collection for her label Forte_Forte, she doesn’t need to play a game of planes, trains, and automobiles to do the perusing. Instead, she simply gets into her car at her studio an hour away from Vicenza, drives for ten minutes, and that’s [...]
Friday April 24, 2009 2:04PM
With his Usual Sure Touch, Roland Mouret Debuts his Luxe Sweater Dressing
A couple of days before his show, Roland Mouret took a break for a lunch of chicken-liver salad and rare boeuf at Le Chateaubriand, and revealed a little of his vision for fall. There are chic coats and jackets with a banana-leaf motif across the bust (far more wearable than it sounds), rather brilliant fitted, [...]
Thursday March 12, 2009 4:03PM
Paris: Where to Eat Now
Brave are those who open a restaurant around the corner from the legendary Les Deux Magots and the Cafe Flore on le rive gauche in Paris, an area that the French revere as much as champagne, couture, and the right to bear cigarettes.
But when those fearless enough are Alex Denis and Jean-Louis Costes, then their [...]
Monday March 09, 2009 11:03AM
Straight off the Paris Runway #2
Why Wait for Fall? Try It Right Now.
For his rather wonderful debut for Rochas, Marco Zanini made a delicate silk or silk satin slip with a ’30s feel—a cross between Jean Harlow’s lingerie and that worn by the heroine in Jean Vigo’s cult movie L’Atalante—the basis for the entire collection, intending it to be worn [...]
Friday March 06, 2009 2:03PM
Straight off the Paris Runway
Why Wait for fall? Try it right now.
Where else would we see the return of the bourgeois bangle than in la belle France? Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière had fabulous layers of chunky gold and silver, Cartier-esque, Elsa Peretti for Tiffany–esque bangles stacked on each wrist to accessorize his equally fabulous fall collection (cocktail dress after cocktail [...]
Thursday March 05, 2009 2:03PM
Work in Progress: Peter Pilotto
There was a quiet hum of activity in the Hackney studio of Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos—the label is named after Pilotto—as assistants toiled away during the final hours before today’s show. Off in the corner, four students were gathered around a single black coat encrusting it with gold and shards of beading. The [...]
Tuesday February 24, 2009 3:02PM
London Calling
“Sienna,” Savannah Miller said to her sister, “try not to look too toothy when you smile!” It’s a shade after 8 P.M. on Sunday night, and one Miller sister is teasing the other as they’re being photographed prior to the runway debut of their label Twenty8Twelve. The show was just an hour away—officially, that was. [...]
Tuesday February 24, 2009 11:02AM
London: Straight off the Runway #1
Why wait for fall? Try it right now.
We’ve hesitated in mentioning the masculine Oxford shoe, seen all over New York city last week, because it felt like it could be a bit of a downer—quite literally. When everything is so unrelentingly flat in the world, isn’t it time to wear heels and elevate, elevate, elevate? [...]
Monday February 23, 2009 3:02PM
Work In Progress: Erdem Moralioglu
“Something happened to her,” said Erdem Moralioglu. “She stopped wafting around a meadow, and she bought a ticket to the city. She may even have . . .” he said, starting to laugh, “bought lipstick.” He was talking last night about the imaginary woman who inspired the fall collection he was finishing up at his [...]
Monday February 23, 2009 1:02PM
Straight Off the Runway #4
Why Wait for Fall? Try It Now.
To all the eighties-isms we have seen this week — Bonfire of the Vanities Social X Ray cocktail frocks, Dianne Brill at Danceteria wasp-waisted jackets, Mudd Club print leggings and short, short dress combos — add another: the evening look accessorized with Ray-Ban Wayfarer–style shades, as seen at Marc [...]
Thursday February 19, 2009 11:02AM
Work in Progress: Joseph Altuzarra
Joseph Altuzarra, whose first ever presentation takes place later today in a gallery in Chelsea, worked through the weekend sustained by copious amounts of a.) Diet Coke, b.) his Mom’s celery soup (she just arrived from London), and c.) coffee with skim milk and four sachets of Splenda “regardless of the size of cup,” Altuzarra [...]
Monday February 16, 2009 11:02AM
The Oscars: Tread With Caution
Movie stars plus the upcoming Academy Awards plus economic catastrophe can equal a fashion Molotov cocktail. Mark Holgate offers some suggestions.
Red: the color of danger, monetary deficit, and the roll of carpet on which Hollywood A listers perambulate up and down at every awards season. And now the various meanings of that hue have coalesced [...]
Monday February 16, 2009 9:02AM
At the Shows: Jenni Kayne
When Los Angeles designer Jenni Kayne decided to design shoes, she set herself high stakes—quite literally. Kayne wanted to match the comfort of her favorite heels—in particular, her latest obsession, a pair of Alaia sandals little more than a tangle of silver leather straps attached to a spindle spike—without them costing a fortune. “These days, [...]
Thursday February 12, 2009 6:02PM
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